Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical
2. Climbing area — Southwest Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Climbing route — First ascent of the north face of Peak Pathor 6083 m
4. Climbing characteristics: Height difference 1520 m. Average slope 65°. Length of difficult sections 700 m.
5. Number of pitons: Rock pitons 163, ice pitons 55
6. Total climbing hours 69 h
7. Number of nights 5, including two semi-sitting nights.

For the All-Union team championship in alpinism in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents.

Peak Pathor via the south face (first ascent)

Sports team of Tomsk regional sports union. Team captain (G. Andreev) Tomsk 1967

Report

on the ascent of Peak Pathor via the south face.

1. Geographical location and sporting characteristics of Peak Pathor. Peak Pathor is located in the central part of the Rushan range in the southwestern region of Pamir. The average height of the range in this area reaches 5500–5600 m. This is where the most significant glaciation node of the Rushan range is located. Its southern and southeastern slopes, facing the Gunt river valley, as well as the northwestern slopes, facing Bartang, are dissected by deep gorges, at the heads of which lie glaciers: Markovsky (Shtselzar), Chapdara, Safedob (southeastern slopes); Gei-Dara, Davlekh, Morsor (northwestern slopes).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — V-3 Pamir, Rushan ridge
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Korolev S.P. via the southern ridge 5525 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m (1100 m from the bivouac)
   • average steepness — up to 45°
   • length of complex routes — 200 m
5. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 10

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — 0-3 Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — first ascent of Peak Klunnikov S.I. (5,442 m) from the Raumid Glacier via the Klunnikov Pass.
4. Ascent description: elevation gain — 500 m (1,000 m from the bivouac) average slope — up to 40° length of difficult sections — 100 m
5. Pitons used: rock — 3, ice — –, screw — –
6. Total climbing time — 7 hours