PASSPORT

1. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Darvaz Range 3. Peak Suraysha, via the right bastion of the eastern wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent 5. Height difference — 1405 m, length: wall — 1675 m, ridge — 300–400 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1095 m. Average steepness: ice — 52°, rocky part — 76°, overall wall — 88°, including 6B category of complexity 83° (4700–4910), 82° (5030–5270) 6. Pitons driven:

5764 / 29.07 29 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Climbing Passport

1. MOUNTAIN ASCENT TYPE: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION: PAMIR, DARVAZ RANGE SPUR
3. PEAK, HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: PIK SOVIETSKAYA UKRAINE, 5764 m, via the Eastern wall from L. Suraysh
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference 1560 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty, 150 m, 415 m, 290 m, 545 m, 739 m. Average slope 70°.
6. PITS SET: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing type: technical II. Climbing area: Western Pamir, Mazarsy ridge, Mazar valley III. Peak, altitude, route: Peak Soviet Olympians (p. 5347) via the right buttress of the southern wall; name proposed by the first ascenders IV. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff., first ascent V. Route characteristics: height difference 1420 m, length – 1625 m (of which V and VI cat. diff. – 1425 m) Steepness – 61°; in the lower and middle part of the route, there is no water for 850 m (in the second half of summer). VI. Number of pitons: 203 (rock pitons – 191, bolt pitons – 12), of which 33 for creating artificial anchors (ITO) VII. Number of walking hours: 74 h 30 min VIII. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate for the climb com­pleted in the 1974 USSR Al­pin­ism Cham­pi­onship. As­cent class: al­ti­tude-tech­ni­cal. As­cent re­gion: West­ern Pamir 5705 m. As­cent route: p. Ar­na­vad (east peak 6650 m) via the east face. As­cent char­ac­ter­is­tics: height dif­fer­ence 2180 m, av­er­age steep­ness 76°, length of the most dif­fi­cult sec­tions 2190 m (height dif­fer­ence 1750 m, steep­ness 79°). Num­ber of pitons: rock — 211, ice — 83, bol­lard — 4. Num­ber of man-hours — 104. Num­ber of biv­ouacs — nine, in­clud­ing prone — 2, semi-prone — 2, sit­ting — 5. Team name: team of the Len­ingrad Re­gion­al Coun­cil of the “Trud” Sports So­ci­ety. Team mem­bers: 1. Chu­nov­kin Gu­riy Al­exan­drov­ich, MS, cap­tain, coach. 2. So­lon­ni­kov Vik­tor Alex­san­drov­ich MS par­tic­i­pant 3. So­lon­ni­kov Vladi­mir Alex­san­drov­ich MS par­tic­i­pant 4. Sha­ly­gin Yuriy Va­sil­ye­vich CMS par­tic­i­pant 5. Pa­sech­ni­kov Le­o­nid Vladi­mi­ro­vich CMS par­tic­i­pant

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11. VIH. 79 16 ­М ­АС.

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent region — Pamir, Larvazsky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — first ascent of Pik Arnavad — 6083 m, north wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 6 5. Section characteristics: height difference — 1960 m, length of sections 5–6 km — 1550 m, average steepness of the wall — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay for 110 rock 179 19, ice 134 13

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