Pik Nansena
Peak5,697 m
Route Description: В стене
First ascent of Peak Nansen (5697 m) via the East Face in the Inylchek Tau range, 5B grade, a combined route 3200-3500 m long.
- Region: Eastern Tian Shan. Ridge: Inylchektau (Too). Section number according to the 2004 classification table: 7.3.5
- Peak name: Peak Nansen, 5697 m. Route name: via the East Face
- Proposed: Category 5B difficulty; first ascent
- Route character: combined
- Route elevation gain: 1497 m according to GPS. Route length: 3200–3500 m. Length of the section:
- A) Category 5 difficulty — 800 m
- B) Category 6 difficulty — 70 m 6 (A). Hooks left:
- A) Rock hooks — 0
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Route Description: С гребню
Winter ascent of Peak Nansen via the North-Eastern Ridge, category 5A difficulty, accomplished by a team led by Alexander Manulik.
Passport
- Winter category
- Central Tien-Shan, Engilchek valley
- Peak Nansen via Northeast ridge
- Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
- Height difference 2847 m, length 3130 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 30.5°
- No hooks were left on the route. No previously driven hooks were found
- Team's climbing hours: 23 hours to the summit. Total 37 hours. Days - 4.
- Nights spent - 4 in tents.
- Leader: Manulik Alexander Gennadyevich, Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: Mikhailov Mikhail Mikhailovich, Master of Sports, Puchinin Andrey Albertovich, Candidate Master of Sports, Akimov Vitaly Vladimirovich, 1st sports category
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Route Description: С гребню
Ascent of Peak Nansen (5697 m) via the North Ridge, category of complexity 5B, height difference 2850 m, combined route.
Ascent Certificate
- Ascent category — high-altitude technical climb.
- Region — central Tian-Shan mountain range.
- Peak — Nansen Peak, 5697 m, via the North Ridge, combined route.
- Estimated category of difficulty: 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 2850 m, length of R5 section — 700 m, average slope — 55°.
- Pitons used: rock — 66 pieces, ice — 55 pieces.
- Total climbing hours — 36.
- Team leader — Oleg Matveevich Solovei, Candidate Master of Sports; team members: Valery Kuzmich Otchik, Candidate Master of Sports; Vasily Mikhailovich Tereshkovets, 1st sports category; Valery Ivanovich Petko, Candidate Master of Sports.
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