Нуамкуан

Peak
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a combined 4A category route to the summit of Inguri and further to the summit of Nuam-Kuam via the South Ridge, including details of the passage and time required for the route.

(the route is combined, Mt. Melia, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 5). From Vakhušti (milestones 82–85) along the snow and ice (cornices) Northern ridge-slope, having passed an ice crevasse, descend to a saddle. From the saddle, along the snow and ice slope approach under the first "saw-tooth" pinnacle of the Southern ridge of Inguri peak. Along a simple couloir bypass the pinnacle from the left and ascend behind it onto a snow saddle (cornice). Further along the boundary of the snow and ice slope, along the rocks on the right side of the Southern ridge bypass II–IV "saw-tooth" pinnacles. Then along the snow slope 60–80 m up to the site of a rocky "island" on a wide snow and ice saddle of the Southern ridge. Make a bivouac on the site. From "Aylama" alpbase 7–8 hrs. From the site along the ruined and jagged rocks of the 250–300-meter Southern ridge, bypassing or overcoming head-on 10–12-meter pinnacles along steep rocks of above average difficulty, exit onto a pinnacle-tower. Further 250–300 m along the jagged Southern ridge of average difficulty, overcoming head-on 5–8-meter pinnacles and bypassing the last large pinnacle of the second "saw" along steep rocks on the right, exit onto a saddle under the Pre-summit pinnacle. Along a steep smooth plate of above average difficulty 20–30 m up. Then along the rocks of average difficulty bypass the pinnacle's summit on the right and along the sharp snow (cornice) Southern ridge descend onto a sharp snow and ice (cornice) ridge. Having passed the saddle, traverse a steep snow and ice slope to the right onto the Southeastern counterforce and along simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeastern counterforce ascend onto Inguri summit. From Vakhušti summit 5–7 hrs.

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