Asan

Peak4,230 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent to the peak Asan via a Category III route (5B grading scale), with a detailed description of the team's tactics and technical actions.

Report

On ascending to the summit of Asan via the 5B category complexity route by the team Temerev Ivan – Kashevnick Anton 9–11 July 2024

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderTemerev Ivan Mikhailovich, Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsKashevnick Anton Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.3Full name of the coachTemerev Ivan Mikhailovich
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Report on the ascent made by the Terekhin-Khvostenko team to the summit of Asan via a new route, category 5B, up the left part of the SW wall.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Asan via the 5B category route by the team

  • Vasily Terekhin
  • Oleg Khvostenko (Krasnoyarsk Krai) July 5–6, 2019

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderTerekhin Vasily Andreevich, MS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsKhvostenko Oleg Valeryevich, MS
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Report on the ascent of Maly Asan peak via the "For friends" route, category 4A, climbed by the team of Oleg Khvostenko and Ratmir Mukhametzyanov.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Maly Asan via the "Fur einen Freund" route, category 4A by the team Oleg Khvostenko – Ratmir Mukhametzyanov (Krasnoyarsk Krai) July 22, 2019

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderKhvostenko Oleg Valerievich, Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsMukhametzyanov Ratmir Nurmukhametovich, Master of Sports
1.3Full name of the coachZakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, Honored Coach of Russia; Valeiry Viktorovich Balezine
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### Route Description Along the Northwest Wall of the Mountain Detailed analysis of sections and technical difficulty.

Photo — 4. Date taken — 1986. Lens — Industar-52. Distance — 4 km. Shooting height — 4000 m. Shooting point number — 4. 1 — Kritsuk route on C 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 2 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" 3" wall, cat. 6 1988. 3 — Voronov route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 4 — Kopeyka route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 5 — Pogorelov route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 6 — Moroz route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 7 — Gorbenko route on C NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 8 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" NW wall, cat. 6 1988.

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Description of the route "along the center of the North-West wall of the peak Asan" 6B category of complexity, climbed by a team of climbers in 1991.

Passport

  1. Category — rock climbing.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river).
  3. Peak Asan, centre of the North-West wall (Rusyayev's route).
  4. 6B category of difficulty.
  5. Height difference — 730 m. Length — 1095 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 950 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 72°.
  6. Pitons hammered: | Rock Pitons | Bolt Pitons | Nuts | Holes for sky-hooks | | :---------- | :--------- | :----- | :------------------ |
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Description of a Category 6B route to the summit of Asan (4280 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay.

I. Rock Climbing Category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley 3. Peak Asan, 4280 m, via the center of the NW wall (Rusiaev's route) 5th ascent 4. Route difficulty: 6B 5. Height difference - 820 m, route length - 1035 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 935 m, including 790 m of 6th category. Average steepness of the route - 73°. Average steepness of the wall section - 69°. 6. Pitons driven: rock pitons 80/32, chocks 86/18, bolt pitons 5/5 + 40 previously used 7. Team's climbing hours - 30.0 Days on the route - 2 8. Overnight stays - I - lying on a ledge for 5 people

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Ascent via the center of the northwest wall of Peak Asan, category 6B difficulty, climbed by a team of Leningrad climbers in 1991.

  1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
  2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — centre of NW wall. KTMGV 5.4.
  4. Complexity category — 6B
  5. Height difference — 780 m of which:
  • wall — 730 m
  • length — 1120 m
  • length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1020 m
  • of which 6 cat. diff. — 845 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°, of which wall — 73°
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Description of a 6th category difficulty route through the Northwest wall of Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.

Passport

  1. Class — rock
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Su gorge
  3. Peak Asan (4230 m), along the center of NW wall
  4. 6B cat. difficulty
  5. Height difference 830 m, length 1045 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. difficulty 880 m, of which 6B cat. difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness of the route 78° (3400–4230), of which 6B cat. difficulty 85° (3540–3800, 3800–4060)
  6. Driven pitons: | rock | bolt | chocks | | :---: | :----: | :----: | | 95/31 | 25/25 | 161/55 |
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### Second Ascent of Peak Asan (4204 m) Wall in Pamir-Alay Details the tactics and technical maneuvers employed by the team during the second ascent via a Category III route (6B complexity).

PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley
  3. Peak Asan, 4204 m
  4. Second ascent, 6B category difficulty
  5. Elevation gain — 865 m, length — 1075 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 975 m, including 6B category difficulty — 830 m. Average slope of the route (3340–4204) — 77°. Average slope of the wall section of the route (3340–4120) — 80°.
  6. Pitons hammered in | Rock | Chocks | Bolt | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |
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Description of the ascent via a category 6 route on the Northwest wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Pamir-Alai mountains, achieved by a team from the Nevsky district alpine club of Leningrad in 1988.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent type — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — via the "mirror" of the NW wall. Category IIIV 5.4. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference — 830 m of which: wall — 780 m Total length — 1120 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1020 m of which: 6th category — 845 m (3400–3680, 3720–3940, 3990–4110, 4140–4180)

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