Gora Almyn-Besjik
Peak3,889 m
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateRoute of the 2A category of complexity to the summit of Altyn-Beshik via the Northern ridge, 900 m long with an altitude difference of 400 m.
- Altyn-Beshik via the North Ridge. The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 104–106). Length — 900 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alp camp (group of 4-12 people) go down the road to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge and, turning left, ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River in the eponymous gorge to the first side gorge (сай). Here, turn right and ascend along the pack trail on the right side of the side gorge, then across the moraine and scree up and right, to reach a small plateau between the Altyn-Beshik peak and a solitary gendarme. From the alp camp — 3–3.5 hours. On the plateau is the initial bivouac. From the plateau, go left and up along the easy rocky Western Ridge to the 1st rocky rise. Bypass the rise by traversing across the scree on the right to a couloir. Through simple steep 45–50° rocks on the left, then right side of the couloir ("live" rocks, drippy ice, piton belay), make a 100–120-meter ascent to the North Ridge. Along the horizontal 40-meter North Ridge, a 5-meter moderately difficult wall, and 50–60 meters of easy North Ridge on scree, reach a scree shelf below the 2nd rise.
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Route Description: З гребню
SSummitMateThe 2A category complexity route to the summit of Altyn-Beshik via the Zapytnыy ridge is a combined route, 1000 m long, ascent time is 4-5 hours.
- Altyn-Beshik via the West Ridge. The route is combined, category 2A. (fig. 5, 104–106). Length — 1000 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2-12 people) down the road along the Kurgan valley to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge, turn left and ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River to the first side valley (say). Here, turn right and up along the pack trail on the right side of the side valley, then ascend via scree to the Chita-Biit pass. From the alpine camp — 3-3.5 hours. At the pass is the starting bivouac. From the starting bivouac, traverse via grassy slopes and scree under the northern slopes of Altyn-Beshik peak to approach a wide couloir filled with 1-2 m scree, descending from under the West Ridge. Having passed the couloir, turn left and ascend via steep 50° simple rock of large block structure
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