Неру

Peak
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent made by the "Bars" alpine club team to Peak Neru and Zapadnaya Pobeda in the Central Tien Shan in 1995 via a Category III route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
  2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
  3. Ascent route — Peak Neru – Western Pobeda.
  4. Complexity category — 6B (approximate).
  5. Ascent characteristics: route length — approx. 10450 m. height difference — 2750 m. average steepness up to the northern shoulder of Peak Neru — 60°.
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First ascent description of 6th cat. difficulty grade route on the left part of the North-East face of Neru peak in the Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Tau range.

I. High-altitude category

  1. Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge
  2. Peak Neru via the left part of the northeast face
  3. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Elevation gain – 2430 m, route length – 2960 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 55° (4300–6744), including 360 m of 6th category of difficulty
  5. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolts – 0, protection 27,
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