Tur (4350 m)

Traverse from southwest to east — category 2B (Fig. 2)

From the initial bivouac located near the terminal moraine of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier, head north towards the summit, which is clearly visible. Initially, it's convenient to follow the stream flowing from the glacier. After ascending the first moraine step, reach a small moraine lake and from there, traverse the fine and medium-sized, densely packed talus, interspersed with snowfields, to the depression in the western ridge of Tur peak. Fig. 2. After ascending the second moraine step, move to its lateral ridges, keeping close to the ridge leading from Tur peak. Continue moving along the moraine and then onto the glacier. After 700–800 m, the foot of the Burkut-tas pass (3900 m) is reached. The ascent to the pass via a steep (up to 50°) snowfield, spanning 300–500 m, leads under a cornice. Carefully cutting through it, exit onto the pass saddle. The journey from the bivouac to the pass takes 3–4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via the southwest ridge. Initially, the rocks are of moderate difficulty (belaying is mandatory), with a significant drop on the right side. After 60–70 m of progress, the path is blocked by an 80-meter gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Characteristics of the passage:

• The number of holds is limited
• Belaying is via pitons (caution!)