Вудьяврчорр, Малая
Route Description: По 2 контфорсу ЮЗ отрога «Панорамик»
Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the classic route from South Inylchek glacier, grade 4B.
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Route Description: По 2 контфорсу ЮЗ отрога «Панорамик»
Report on the first ascent of the summit Vudyavrchorr via a Category 2B route in the Khibiny Mountains, featuring a detailed description of the path and technical details.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Vudyavrchorr via the route of category 2B complexity on July 6, 2022
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Shcherbakov Alexander Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Petrova Alena Mikhailovna, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Vernus Tatiana Viktorovna |
| 1.4 | Organization |
Route Description: По правому камину восточной стены
Report on the first ascent of the "Along the right chimney of the eastern wall" route, category 2B difficulty level, to the summit of Vud'yavrchorr Maly in Khibiny.
REPORT
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VUDYAVRCHORR MALY VIA THE ROUTE "ALONG THE RIGHT CHIMNEY OF THE EASTERN WALL" CATEGORY 2B COMPLEXITY BY THE TEAM OF UTS FAMO "KHIBINY-22" FOR THE PERIOD FROM AUGUST 17, 2022 TO AUGUST 17, 2022 2022
I. ASCENT DOCUMENT
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Patutinskii Alexander Nikolaevich 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Preobrazhenskii Alexander Olegovich – III sports rank, Dolya Vladimir Vladimirovich – III sports rank, Tarasov Arsenii Aleksandrovich – III sports rank, Melashenko Maria Evgenievna – III sports rank, Kostrik Mikhail Aleksandrovich – III sports rank. |
Route Description: С стене
Description of the new via ferrata "Lestenka" (category 5B difficulty) to the Vud'yavrchorr summit in the Khibiny mountain range.
Ascent Passport
- Khibiny mountain range. Ganesheva Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
- Peak name: Vudyavrchorr 1067 m, route name — "Lestenka".
- Proposed — 5B category difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 470 (by altimeter) Route length: 510 m. Section lengths:
- V category difficulty — 120 m,
- VI category difficulty — 70 m.
Route Description: С стене
A new rock climbing route "Лесенка" (category 5B) to the top of Vudyavrchorr in Khibiny Mountains, first ascent by a team led by Arkady Andreev.
Ascent Passport
- Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Ganeskin Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6 1068
- Peak name — Vudyavrchorr, route name — "Lestenka".
- Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 470 m (by altimeter)
Route length: 510 m.
Section lengths:
- 5th category of difficulty: 115 m.
Route Description: левой части С стены
Description of the new rock climbing route "Molotok" (category 5A) to the summit of Vudyavrchorr in the Khibiny mountain range.
8.6.1.12
Ascent Passport
- Khibiny mountain range. Ganeshinga Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
- Name of the peak: Vudyavrchorr 1067 m, route name — «Molotok».
- Proposed — 5A cat. difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 390 (by altimeter).
Route length: 490 m.
Section length:
- V cat. difficulty — 124 m.
Route Description: правой части левого бастиона В стены
Report on the ascent to the summit of Vudyavrchorr via the "Kopyлка" route, category 4A, with a detailed description of the route and technical photographs.
Report
On the ascent of the Right part of the Left bastion of the Eastern wall of Vudyavrchorr (B) (1068 m), "Kopilka" route. Estimated category of complexity – 4A. For classification. (First ascent: Ageev N., 1995) Khibiny mountain range. Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Ganesina cirque. Classification table section number: 8.6.1. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Leader: Kananykhin I.V. St. Petersburg, 2019
I. Ascent Passport
Route Description: левой части правого бастиона В стены
Report on climbing route 1B to Vud'yavrchorr via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, with a detailed description of the ascent and recommendations.
Route on Vudyavrcorr (1B) via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, 4A ("chestnaya devushka")
View from below: the route line, pitches, and belay stations.
The idea to go on this climb during the winter season had been ripening for a long time. The description had been lying in my folder since last year. Back then, the conditions were bad, and we didn't end up doing it.
This year, everything was different. I immediately decided that we would go calmly, with processing, over 2 days. The route was well-suited for this:
- up to R9, almost everything is on snow;
- then a cave;
- further, 6.5 ropes — the rock part.
Moreover, it was highly motivating that the report was promised to be published in St. Petersburg: there was no need to rack our brains over who to take, with whom to meet, and on which routes — we could work calmly. As we were gathering, adjustments were made: the team composition changed and shrunk, but overall, nothing prevented us from starting the route.
On April 5, we climbed the Avalanche Couloir. We examined the route from below and above, took photos. The first impression: there's a lot of snow. But there's no pronounced overhanging snow above this part of the bastion.
Route Description: левой части правого бастиона В стены
Report on the ascent of Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr Mt. via "Chestnaya devushka" route, category 4B.
FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING OF SAINT-PETERSBURG, "LETI" ALP CLUB
Report
on Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr (1068 m) via the left part of the right bastion of the eastern wall "Chestnaya devushka" (First ascent was made on April 27, 1993, led by Shumilov O.I.) Balagurin S.O. Khibiny mountain range. Takhtarvumchorr ridge Classification table section: #8.6
- Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Takhtarvumchorr ridge. Classification table section: #8.6
- Peak name — Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr 1068 m, route name — via the left part of the right bastion of the eastern wall "Chestnaya devushka".
- Proposed category: 4B. First ascent
- Route characteristics: winter — combined, summer — rock.
Route Description: правому ребру С стены
Report on the repeated ascent of the "Gendarmerie" route, category 3B difficulty, on the right edge of the S wall of Mt. Vud'yavrchorr in Khibiny on August 26, 2015.
Report
On the ascent
via the right rib of the N wall Mt. Vudyavrcorr (B) (1068 m), "Gendarmerie" route (first ascent by Ageev N., 1995), 3B category of difficulty, Ganeshinga cirque, Khibiny (August 26, 2015, repeat ascent) Leader: Goloborodko A. Coach: Ivanov D.
Apatity
2016
Ascent passport
- Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain massif. Classification table section number: 8.6.1.
- Route name — "Gendarmerie", via the right rib of the N wall of Mt. Vudyavrcorr (B) (1068 m).