ASCENT PASSPORT

1. ASCENT CLASS — snow and ice.
2. ASCENT AREA — Tian-Shan, the peak is located in the main ridge of Zailiyskiy Alatau between the peaks OPTЭ and Chokan Valikhanov. To the south of the peak is the Bogatyr glacier, to the north is the Shoskalsky glacier.
3. PEAK ELEVATION — 4400 m. The route runs from the north along the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass, from the pass along the eastern ridge to the peak.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — elevation difference: from the base of the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass 450 m, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 200 m. Difficulty of individual sections — from 1B to 3A cat. diff. Average steepness of the route 25°.
6. PITONS USED — 4 ice screws for belay purposes.
7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS — from the camps under the Chekist peak (“Football field”) to the OPTЭ pass 4 hours, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 1 hour, descent from the peak to the camps 2 hours.
8. NO OVERNIGHT STAYS are planned on the route.
9. PARTICIPANT INFORMATION — team leader Lobushkin Vladimir Nikolaevich, 1st sports category, Popov Alexander Mikhailovich, 1st sports category, Kolonogorov Alexander Valerianovich, 2nd sports category, Petrov Mikhail Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category, Prekhin Viktor Grigorievich, 2nd sports category.

Ch. Valikhanov

The peak "Bezymyannaya" (4200 m) is located in a lateral ridge branching off the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau between the peaks Suleiman Stalsky and OPTЭ, to the northeast towards Lake Shokalsky. The northern slopes of the peak are icy with rocky outcrops, while the southern slopes are steep rocky walls and counterforts separated by couloirs (photo #1). The approach to the peak from the "Talgar" camp goes as far as the green glade below Lake Kroshka and further along the moraine of Lake Shokalsky; we approach the beginning of the ridge where a night's stay is organized. Approach time: 4–5 hours.

Description of the ascent route

The ascent path goes to the northeastern ridge. The exit to the ridge is made along the third couloir descending from the northern slope, in the direction of a characteristic rocky finger resembling the head of the idol Aku-Aku from Easter Island described by Thor Heyerdahl. The lower part of the couloir:

• snowy
• wide The upper part of the couloir: