Ministry of Sports and Tourism of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2014

Class: High-Altitude Technical

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Parus Western 4850 m via the north wall. First ascent, 5B category of difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2014.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak gorge area, Ashat gorge
2. Summit — Parus (3), 4850 m, via the center of the north wall

Parus (3rd peak), SW edge, cat. 5B 1480, 2043, 72°; 641 (39); 158 (39); 3/2; 5 days, 6 nights. 41 hours against Trench standard D. Egorov, I. Belyaev, S. Mikhailov, Ch. Khlyustikov (Masovy) from July 14 to 19, 1989 Photo-2. Route profile on the left (ridge) Taken from p. Ashat on July 13, 1989. S ≈ 5 km, H ≈ 2500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro. Photo-3. Route profile on the right (triangle) Taken from the cirque of v. Parus on July 11, 1989. S ≈ 7 km, H ≈ 3500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro.

Tactical Actions of the Team

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Uryam gorge 3. Peak 4800 m (Parus Vostochny) via the right part of the North-Eastern wall, rock 4. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 900 m, length — 1090 m, length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge — 74° (3900–4510), base of the wall — summit — 60° (3900–4800) 6. Pitons hammered on the route Friends 74/22; rock pitons 67/32; ice screws 0/0; chocks 75/28; drilled pitons 7. Team's walking hours: 4 hours and days — 5. 8. Night stay: 0 — 2nd under the route, comfortable in a tent, 3rd — on an inclined platform, sitting, 4th — on the ridge

43 I Championship of the All-Union Council of the All-Union Voluntary Sports Society (VDSSO) of Trade Unions on Alpinism 1989 Technical Class REPORT on the ascent (first ascent) to Peak 4800 m (Parus Eastern) via the bastion of the North-East wall, approximately 6A category of difficulty, by the team of the "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions from August 9 to 17, 1989. Team Leader: Mityukhin F.P. Team Coach: Mityukhin F.P. 1989. Addresses:

• "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions 244011, Sumy, Novomestenskaya St., 26

5.4 .2 .

4 АК

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Turkestan Range, Ashat gorge.
3. East Parus (4800) via North ridge, combined route.
4. Approximately 4800 m, diff. 6, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 800 m, length of sections V cat. diff. — 65 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°
6. Pitons hammered: