Report

On the Traverse of Brigantina and Albatros Peaks, Carried Out by the Chelyabinsk Region Team from August 3 to 7 for the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" Championship

The peaks of Brigantina (4850 m) and Albatros (Eastern – 4800 m, Western – 4740 m) are located in the axial part of the Terskey-Alatoo ridge (see orographic scheme) and close the Kokbor valley (55 km south of the city of Przhevalsk). The Kokbor River is a right tributary of the Karakol River (the peaks are located in the upper reaches of the right tributary of the Kokbor River). A truck can reach 19 km up the Karakol valley, and then a good horse trail continues for another 21 km, followed by 15 km of shepherd trails to the tongue of the Brigantina glacier. Loads are transported up from the end of the motor road by shuttling. The peaks of Brigantina and Albatros, like all the surrounding peaks, are composed of granites, which are enriched with feldspars in many places. The northern slopes of Brigantina peak are an ice wall cut by two steep ridges-counterforts: the northern and northwestern ones, leading to the eastern ridge. The slopes of Albatros drop steeply to the north with ice walls having sheer cliffs in the upper part. From the Brigantina peak to the saddle, there is a snowy corniche ridge. The ridge leading to the Eastern and further to the Western peak of Albatros is a rocky saw (26 gendarmes) with numerous cornices hanging on both sides.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area: Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Albatros Zap. (4700), via the spur on the N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 180 m, average steepness — 60°, number of rock pitons hammered — 35, number of placements — 14, number of ice screws — 18
6. Number of travel hours: 15
7. One overnight stay — on the moraine of Djigit glacier
8. Team composition:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Albatros Western, 4740 m, via the counterfort of the northern wall, from Brigantina glacier
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B, combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 581 m, length — 840 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 68° (from 4212 m to 4706 m). Length of sections:
   • Grade III — 420 m
   • Grade IV — 182 m

PASSPORT

I. Class: technical 27. Tian-Shan 3. Peak: Zapadny Albatros via the north wall. Category 5A difficulty, presumably the 3rd ascent. 4. Elevation gain: 550 m Route length: 740 m, average slope 60° 5. Pitons hammered: * rock - 23 * ice - 47

Ascent Certificate (First Ascent) I. Category - technically difficult ascents. 2. Region - Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol Valley, Brigantina Glacier area. 3. Route Name: To the peak Zapadny Albattros via the North face. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B cat. diff. 46 pitches. 528, p.1. From the bergschrund to the summit. 5. Elevation gain 400 m. Length - 700 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. section - 370 m. 6. On the route: ice screws - 24 rock pitons - 8 placed chocks - 6 used slings - 11

Team Championship of CS DSO "TRUD" 1969 in Alpinism Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH-WESTERN COUNTERFORCE OF PIK ALBATROS — ROUTE 5A cat. diff. (Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, height 4740 m) Team of MGS DSO "Trud" July 18-20, 1969 Moscow, 1969

I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE REGION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT.

Pik Albatros (eastern peak — 4800 m, western — 4740 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge and closes the Kок-bor gorge (55 km south of Przhevalsk). The peak is located in the upper reaches of the right tributary of the Kокbor River, which is a right tributary of the Karakol River.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category
2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: p. Zap. Albatros via SW ridge through p. Epyura
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1010 m length of complex section average steepness
5. Pitons used: rock 4, ice, bolted
6. Total hours on the move: 8 h