7.8.4

Route Description

TO PEAK ODINNADЦATI (northeastern summit) 5437 m. Brief geography of the area. Peak Odinnadцati is located in the area of the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier on the Sarydzhas ridge, between Peak Bayankol and an unnamed peak located northwest of Peak Semenov. The massive glaciations in this area drain into the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier and from the southeastern slopes into the Severny Inylchek glacier. The northeastern summit of Peak Odinnadцati is predominantly snow-ice in character. Strong winds, blowing mostly from the southwest, form huge cornices on the ridge of the peak, overhanging the northwestern slopes. The ascent was first made by athletes from the Kazakh Alpine Club led by U. Usenov in August 1957. The group consisted of ten climbers, divided into five teams:

• U. Usenov — Domianiди Я.
• Brega M. — Tagabergenov M.
• Kaveshnikov Yu. — Tarasenko