Petrogradets
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Petrogradets (5163 m) via the center of the southeast wall, a 5-6 category complexity route, climbed by a group of climbers in 1982.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Classification Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamir range, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets, 5163 m via the center of the southeast wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B (2nd ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200 m – 5163 m = 963 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 490 m: 5th category — 395 m, 6th category — 95 m, average steepness 72° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 119, ice — 0, bolt — 0, placements — 42
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
SSummitMateAscent log for Petrogradsky Peak (5163 m) via the center of the southeast wall, rated 5B difficulty, including the route's technical characteristics and recommendations for future climbers.
Ascent Log
Completed in the 1982 Leningrad City Alpinism Championship
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir range, Turkestan range, AkSu valley
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets 5163 m via the center of the "south-east wall"
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. (rocky)
- Route characteristics: height difference 4200–5163 m (963 m), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 490 m, sections with 5th cat. diff. — 395 m, sections with 6th cat. diff. — 95 m, average steepness 72°
- Pitons driven: for insurance, rock — 122, ice — 0, bolt — 0, chocks — 39; for creating artificial anchors, rock — 29, ice — 0, bolt — 0
- Number of climbing hours: 37 over 4 days
- Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 3 overnight stays — shared (2 short lying, 1 — sitting)
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
SSummitMateAscent of Pik Petrogradets via the south-eastern wall through a cleft; first ascent of category 6A difficulty route, made by a team of climbers in 1989.
Passport
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge
- Pik Petrogradets (5164 m), via the center of the southeast wall through the spall.
- Assumed — 6A cat. tr. first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 960 m, length — 1160 m.
Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tr. — 640 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 74° (4200–5120 m), including 6 cat. tr.:
- 83° (4560–4600 m)
- (4700–4940 m)
- (5020–5060 m)
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via South Col from 7900, key route points, and ascent statistics.
5090
5120
Route Description: В ребру
SSummitMateClimbing route description for the Petrogradets peak (5163 m) via the East Ridge, complexity category 5B, tactics, and team movement schedule.
PASSPORT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karasu gorge.
- Petrovgradets (5163 m) via the Eastern ridge.
- Second ascent, 5B cat. sl. is assumed.
- The length of sections with 6–5B cat. sl. is about 300 m, 5A cat. sl. is about 450 m. The average steepness of the main sections is 80–90° (4800–4900), 70–80° (4900–5000), all of them are 5–6 cat. sl.
- Pitons hammered: rock, drilled, chocks, ice — 29, 27, 38.
- Travel hours — 27, days — 3.
- Two nights in a tent on the ledges.
Route Description: В ребру
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Petrogradets (5163 m) via the Eastern edge with a detailed analysis of sections and complexity categories.
Ascent Log
I. Technical category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Suu gorge 3. Peak Petrogradets (5163 m) via the eastern edge from the saddle between Peak Iskander (5120) 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1413 m, route length - 1850 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 820 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 70° (4190-5000), including 6 category of difficulty - 85° (4720-4760), 60° (4760-4763), 105° (4810-4815) 6. Pitons driven | Rock | Ice | Nuts | Bolts |