Dugoba. Maly Zamok. Aleksey Tyulyupo

Lyosha Tyulyupo is currently in Dugoba, climbing in the mountains. He would have written this himself, but the internet there is, let's say, unstable. So, he asked me to post a couple of updates, sending the materials through an opportunity. And that's what I'm doing :0)) The first post is about a new route on Maly Zamok (4A) - a description and some thoughts on the topic.... This spring, an article about a new 3B route on Maly Zamok - the mountain closest to the Dugoba alp camp - appeared on "Risk". The experience of the summer gatherings showed that the route turned out to be very much in demand. However, few people know that a 4A route was laid out on the same wall. There were no enthusiasts to climb it during the May gatherings, so I didn't hurry with the report. A few days ago, we made a second ascent and:

• equipped the stations with bolts. Now, we can safely recommend this route to gathering participants with good rock climbing training.

2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description

The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012. The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line. We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route. The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.