50-летия Узбекистана

Peak0
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
0

Description of the route through the center of the northeast wall of Peak 50 years of Uzbekistan, technical details, and specifics of the 1974 ascent.

Ascent Log

Ascents

Ascent category — technically challenging Ascent area — southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Lenin Peak area Ascent route — center of the northeastern wall of Peak 50 Years of Uzbekistan, elevation 4650 m Ascent characteristics:

  • Wall height difference — 1012 m
  • Average steepness — 72°
  • Length of main sections:
    • 4th difficulty category — 48 m
0
0

Description of the ascent route to the summit "50 лет Узбекистана" (4650 m) via the northwest wall, category of complexity 5A, climbed by a group of climbers in 1978.

Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area — Alai Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 50 лет Узбекистана (50 Years of Uzbekistan), 4650 m, via the heart of the NW wall.
  4. Difficulty category 5A.
  5. Route characteristics — combined, height difference 850 m, length of 5th category sections 240 m, total 1190 m, average steepness 50°.
  6. Pitons driven:
    • for belaying: rock — 85, ice — 3, bolted — none;
    • for creating initial points: rock — 10, ice — none, bolted — none.
  7. Number of climbing hours — 25 hours.
0
0

Description of the 5B category rock climbing route to the peak 50 let Uzbekistana (4650 m) in the southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Levinского glacier.

Ascent Log

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area — southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Levin'skaya Glacier.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 50 let Uzbekistana, 4650 m, via the "sickle" of the N–E wall.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category, No. 453 dated February 28, 1978.
  5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 240 m, average steepness of the route 50°. Total length 1190 m.
  6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial holds | | | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :---------- | :---- | :----------- | :----------------------------- | | rock | — | 88 | 4 |
0
0

### Climbing Route to Peak 50 Years of Uzbekistan (4,891 m) via the Eastern Ridge, Category 5A Complexity Details on the route's passage and recommendations for climbers.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, southern spurs of the Alai ridge, Levin's glacier
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 50 years of Uzbekistan, via the SE ridge, 4891 m
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections of category V difficulty — 430 m, average steepness — 40°
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 49, ice — 3, bolted — none
  7. Number of climbing hours — 11.5
  8. Number of nights on the route: the route was completed without overnight stays, there are places on the route for organizing semi-reclined overnight stays
  9. Full name of participants, their qualification:
0
0