Report

on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of:

• Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor
• Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor
• Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category
• Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov

Pik Suloeva

Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club

Ascent of Peak Suloev via the South Face, 5816 m (first ascent)

Leader: V.M. Nadbakh-Kiedessa Participants:

• I.V. Grebenshchikov
• V.K. Nevorotin Moscow, 1969 The participants of this group are part of the team from the Central Council of the Burevestnik Sports Club, formed in the spring of 1969 to undertake high-altitude and technically challenging ascents. In the summer of 1968, as part of the 2nd complex expedition of the Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club, the participants of this group ascended Peak Lenin.

Report on Ascent to Pik Suloeva (5816 m) via the West Ridge

First ascent, approximately 4A category of difficulty (Protocol No. 313, 3A). Leader – Zaseckij V. G.

Fortambek Glacier Basin

The summit of Pik Suloeva (5816 m) is located in the eastern branch of the northern spur of the Peter I Range, branching off from Pik Moskva. The ascent to the summit was undertaken for acclimatization purposes, and therefore it was decided to climb the peak via the easiest route, which, after studying images of the summit from different sides, was assumed to lead to the summit from the Western cirque. The ascent was planned and prepared in Moscow. On July 17, 1969, at 6:00, the group consisting of Zaseckij, Grebenschikov, Bozhukov, Nadbah, Nevvorotin, and Poroshin departed from the base camp located in a pocket of the left-bank moraine of the Fortambek Glacier (see diagram). 3 hours of walking along the moraine with a marked path, and another 1 hour ascent along the lateral moraine of the unnamed glacier, and then along the glacier itself – exit into the cirque formed by the southern and western ridges of the summit. Here, on the median moraine, they prepared a site and set up a tent. After resting and having lunch at 16:00, when the daytime heat had subsided, Bozhukov, Grebenschikov, and Nadbah went on a reconnaissance sortie to the upper reaches of the "Novator" glacier, as the unnamed glacier was decided to be named. After 2 hours, they returned and reported that:

• There is, apparently, a good exit to the West Ridge beyond the glacier's bend;
• There is also an interesting path to the summit along the counterfort of the West Wall.