ASCENT ROUTE DESCRIPTION TO PEAK KORZHENEVSKOGO VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE FROM NAZAROV GLACIER 5A cat. dif. (first ascent) July 1961. Pamir

Brief geographical characteristics of the area

Peak Korzhenevskogo, 6005 m high, is located in the Trans-Alay Range. To the east of the summit is Peak Biletsky (6075 m), to the west - Peak VMF (5842 m). The northern slopes of Peak Korzhenevskogo are the sources of the Nazarov Glacier, the northeastern ones - the sources of the At-Jaylau Glacier. The southern slopes of Peaks VMF, Korzhenevskogo, and Biletsky adjoin the Uy-Su Glacier. The first ascent to Peak Korzhenevskogo was made in 1951 by a group led by Nozdryukhin V. via Peak VMF. The route was rated as 4B cat. dif. From Peak Korzhenevskogo, a long ridge extends to the northeast, covered with a powerful ice-snow cover on the northern side. Along this ridge, from July 26 to 29, 1961, participants of the high-altitude gathering of the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" made the first ascent to Peak Korzhenevskogo.

Route description

From the base camp, located 2 km from the tongue of the Korzhenevsky Glacier, the path passes along the right bank of the Dzhakay-Dartak River, then along the stone-covered glacier, sticking to its left (in the direction of travel) side.