Baumana

Peak4,029 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Route Description: Ю гребню

SummitMateSSummitMate
23 days ago

Ascent to the summit of Bodorku via the southern ridge, route description, complexity category, necessary equipment, and preparation.

БО­ДО­RКУ

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Description of the combined route 2A category of complexity to the peak of Baumann via the southern ridge from the Chegem valley.

241. Bauman Peak via the South Ridge

(combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-8 people) to the Northwest branch of the Kulak Glacier is described in route 233. Before reaching the Northwest branch, turn right and exit the glacier onto the steep right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypass the first step of the Northwest branch glacier's icefall from the right. After the icefall, exit onto the Northwest branch and approach the second, most powerful, step of the icefall from the right side. The second step is bypassed from the right, initially:

  • ascending a steep, narrow, heavily destroyed 35-40-meter couloir,
  • then traversing above the icefall along smooth rocks. Further, via the "ram's foreheads," exit onto the upper plateau of the Northwest branch of the Kulak Glacier above the second step. From here, cross the upper plateau upwards to the left and approach the lowest saddle of the spur - the Bodorku pass. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow slope of a wide couloir (avalanches, protection) through a snow cornice onto the saddle of the Bodorku pass. The path from:
  • "Chegem" tourist base — 10-12 hours
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