Shogentsukov Peak

Petukh pinnacle R20 250 m 2 Θ R19 5 m 4+ 70° R18 20 m 2 Θ R17 20 m 4+ 80° R16 20 m 3 50° Θ R15 35 m 3 60° R14 50 m 3 60° Θ

Report

on the first ascent of Shogentsukova peak via the South-Eastern wall, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Ullu-tau 2007

Route Passport

1. Mountain system — Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. Name of the peak: Shogentsukova peak Peak number according to the 2001 classification table: 2.4.161
2. Route name: via the South-Eastern wall
3. Category of difficulty: 4A Passage: 1st passage

ADDRESSES:

LLC SOAB "Ullutau": 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Ph. 8-8662-77-09-87 TEAM LEADER (report-related issues): 300001, Tula, Karla Marksa St. 130, A.V. Rasskazov home ph. 8-4872 42-59-94 E-mail: tulalp@yandex.ru COACH: 360017, KBR, Nalchik, Kirova St. 12, apt. 50, Yu.I. Porokhnya home ph. 8-8662-74-08-65 Elevations marked in the report were determined visually and with the aid of the main rope. The Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak

Ascent Passport

1. Kullumkol gorge (eastern branch of Adyr-su gorge). According to the 2008 classification table 2.4.1.
2. Peak Shogentsukova, 4081 m, via the northern slope.
3. Proposed — Category III difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character — ice and snow
5. Height difference of the route: (by altimeter or GPS) Altimeter and GPS are not used. Route length: technical part of the route 210 m, total route length 450 m. Section lengths: Category V difficulty — 4 m (ice wall 70–80° at the beginning of the technical part of the route), Category VI difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 48°; total route — 32°.
6. "Streams" (pitons) left on the route: All ice screws (10 pieces) are removed.
7. Team's walking hours: 9 hours 30 minutes, 2 days (including approach to the bivouac)
8. Leader: Zhigir Sergey Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports

The route to the peak Shogentsukov via South ridge, cat. 2B (E. Fomushkin, 1965). Since 1965, the route has changed slightly. R1–R2. 90–100 m, 10–15 degrees, 1. From the shoulder of the South ridge of peak Shogentsukov, without descending to the glacier, to the right, along the South ridge. Along the large talus and destroyed rocks, approach a sharp gap in the ridge. R2–R3. 30–40 m, 20–25 degrees, 2. Descend into the gap (15 m, rappel) to the col of the South ridge. From the gap, along a small 8–10-meter couloir, ascend to an even, wide talus plateau. R3–R4. 90–100 m, 5–10 degrees. Along the plateau, approach the talus couloir. R4–R5. 70–80 m, 25–30 degrees, 2. Along the couloir, ascend 70–80 meters to a small col to the left of the ridge. R5–R6. 25 m, 45–60 degrees, 3–4. To the right along the rocks and steep inner corner with ice to the ridge. Along the ridge to the left, bypass the gendarme on the right side in the upper part. R6–R7. 2–3. Bypass several gendarmes along the ledges in a zigzag pattern (2nd and 3rd - to the left, 4th - to the right). R7–R8. Wide inclined ledge to the right of the 4th gendarme. 30 m. Cross to the left through the ridge to the snowy slope. R8–R9. To the right to the summit. Snowy slope 80 m. Kovalev A.N. 08/2020.