Oreliubashi
Peak4,064 m
Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateCategory 1B route to the summit of Orel via the South ridge, duration 2 days, ice axe required.
- Orely via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the Killar Pass is described in routes 184 and 201. From the Killar Pass, turn left (north) and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Orely. From here, ascend along the wide, heavily eroded, straightforward rocky ridge to the summit of Orely. From the Killar Pass, it takes 30-40 minutes. Descend via the same route. The duration of the route is 2 days. Additionally, bring an ice axe.
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Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the top of Orёл via the North ridge, category 1B, through the Shternberg pass, with a description of the path from the Adylsu alpine camp.
- Orlyu via the North Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stream flowing with waterfalls from the left lateral gorge, which is highly elevated above the Tyutyusu valley, is described in route 184. Crossing the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream into its valley, above two waterfalls. Then:
- along the moraines and scree along the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream,
- across a simple, gently sloping (with crevasses in the upper part!) Zapadnyy Kayarta glacier, reach the saddle in the ridge between the Orlyu peak on the right and the Glavnaya Kayarta peak on the left — the Shternberg pass. To the pass:
- from the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope (beware of rockfall from the peaks' slopes!),
- then ascend simple, fragmented rocks to the Shternberg pass. On the pass, turn right and:
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