Description of the Ascent of the Northern Ridge of Kurkurek Peak in the North Chuya Range

The actual climbing route along the northern ridge of Kurkurek begins after the climbers, having left their camp, descend to the transfer base at the beginning of the Aktru gorge and then ascend through the windfalls and debris of the taiga to the foot of the peak. Although this does not relate to the climbing difficulty of the ascent, it requires a significant initial expenditure of energy from the sports group over 8–10 hours. A bivouac, from which the ascent up the northern ridge of the peak begins, can be set up on the ridge itself. Initially, it is not difficult, starting as a steep grassy slope (1 hour's walk), followed by a gentle (25°) fine and medium talus, and then a steeper (35°) coarse quartz talus. Further along, the ridge becomes more pronounced but remains easily passable, as its ascents are not steep, and the width of the ridge is sufficient for setting up a tent. From the river at the tongue of the Kurkurek glacier to the extremely convenient sites for an overnight stay, located directly on the ridge, it takes approximately 3 hours. The overnight stay is located about 900–1000 meters below the peak. The path is then blocked by six more or less pronounced gendarmes composed of shale rocks. The first three gendarmes are bypassed on the right, the fourth and fifth are climbed head-on, and the sixth is traversed on the right along a ledge at the boundary of a snowfield that steeply descends onto the Kurkurek glacier between the northern and northwestern ridges of the peak. The time required by the group to overcome this section is 2.5 hours.