Russian Mountaineering Championship. Altitude Class. August 2011
Report
Combined team of FASiL St. Petersburg on Great Trango Tower (6237 m) via the bastion of the Northwest Wall. Route "Parallel World". First ascent. Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3). Karakoram. Pakistan.
Team leader: Kopteva M.V. Team coaches: Chapliński I.O., Kapitanov O.V.
St. Petersburg, 2011
Climbing Passport
- Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier area.
- Peak - Great Trango Tower (Southwest), 6237 m. Via the bastion of the Northwest Wall.
- Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3), first ascent.
- Route type: combined.
- Height difference: 2000 m (by altimeter).
- Route length: 2580 m.
- Section lengths: V category complexity - 360 m, VI category complexity - 1740 m.
- Average slope: wall part of the route - 74°, entire route - 66°.
- Number of pitons on the route:
- rock pitons - 343 pcs.
- protection gear - 377 pcs.
- bolt pitons - 75 pcs.
- ice screws - 23 pcs.
- Team's climbing hours: 310 hours, 38 days (including 3 days of processing).
- Camps (Camp): 1st on scree ledge R6-R7, 2nd under overhang R11-R12, 3rd under overhangs R17-R18, 4th on slab R21-R22, 5th on ledge behind overhang R24-R25, 6th on wall R28-R29, 7th on small ledge at the base of internal angle R32-R33, 8th on ridge R39-R40, 9th on snow-ice slope under the summit tower R41-R42. All night stays were hanging on platforms.
- Team leader: Kopteva Marina Vladimirovna - MS.
Participants:
- Yasinskaya Anna Leonidovna - MS.
- Chibitok Galina Vladimirovna - MS. Coaches:
- Chapliński I.O.
- Kapitanov O.V.
- Start of the route: 9:00, July 22, 2011. Summit: 21:00, August 25, 2011. Return to Base Camp: 23:00, August 28, 2011.
General photo with route lines
Great Trango Tower (6237 m)
Trango Towers are impressive rock spires located at the northern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Baltistan region of northern Pakistan. They are part of the Baltoro Muztagh range, which is a lateral spur of the Karakoram range. The highest point of the massif is Great Trango Tower, with a height of 6286 meters. The west face of this tower is one of the largest vertical walls in the world, measuring 1340 meters.
All the towers of the Trango massif are located on a ridge stretching from northwest to southeast between the Trango Glacier to the west and the Dunge Glacier to the east. Great Trango Tower itself is a massif with four summits: Main (6286 meters), South or Southwest (6237 meters), East (6231 meters), and West (6223 meters).
The first ascent of Great Trango Tower was made in 1977 by a team consisting of Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey, and Dennis Hennek. The route followed the western side from the Trango Glacier via a system of ice gullies and rock walls and finished along the upper part of the South Wall.
Route profile
Route profile
Profile of the second bastion
General photo of the area
Technical photo of the route
Technical photo of the middle part of the route
Route description by sections
R0-R1. Start of the route - a ledge at the end of the scree gully formed by the adjacent counterfort and the wall. Straight up the left wall of the chimney. Exit onto the ledge. Bolt pitons. 60 m. V. ...
R48-R49. Snow ridge. Exit onto the summit. 40 m IV.
Tactical actions of the team
July 15-17, 2011. Acclimatization climb to 5000 m. Overnight stay. Viewing possible route options. Assessing rockfall and icefall hazards.
July 18-20, 2011. Kopteva-Yasinskaya duo processed the route. Chibitok G. carried loads under the wall.
July 21, 2011. Rest day before departure.
July 22, 2011. Team established Camp 1. Carried all loads, removed hanging ropes, and processed 50 m.
July 23-25, 2011. Completed sections R8-R12. Weather was good. Established Camp 2.
...
August 25, 2011. Summit at 21:00. Weather was terrible. Storm. At 23:00 descended to the platform.
August 26-28, 2011. Descent via the ascent route. All rappel stations were on bolt pitons.
Movement schedule
Camp 1. Kopteva Marina.
Section R10-R11
Kopteva Marina
Chibitok Galina on section R13-R14.
Kopteva-Yasinskaya duo on R20-R21.
R23-R24. Kopteva Marina.
Camp 6, section R29-R30.
R35-R36. Kopteva Marina.
R36-R37. Yasinskaya Anna.
Chibitok Galina on the ridge R39-R40.
R42-R43. Kopteva Marina.
R46-R47. Yasinskaya Anna.
Equipment list
Ropes: 2×60 m dynamic + 4×50 m static. Auxiliary cord 30 m. Protection gear 15 pcs. Camalots 12 pcs. Pitons 20 pcs. Skyhooks 3 pcs. (BD tags). Bolt pitons 78 pcs. Drill 2 pcs. Quickdraws 15 pcs. Carabiners b/m 20 pcs. Screw-link carabiners 10 pcs. Loops 20 pcs. Ice screws 4 pcs. Ice tools 2 pcs. Crampons 1 pair. Rock hammers 3 pcs. Wrecking bar 1 pcs. Jumars 6 pcs. Etriers with ladders 3 sets. Platform 1 pcs. Sleeping bag-blanket 1 pcs. Kitchen 1 pcs. Radio 1 pcs. Satellite phone 1 pcs.