93. PLIEVA via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, 4A category of difficulty)

From the starting point in the Tsey district, head towards "Zelyonyy kholm" moraine of the Skaazsky glacier and further to the glacier plateau under the Lagaukhokh cliffs.

• From the overnight stop, bypassing wide crevices, go to the left counterfort at the site of the avalanche cone. Cross the avalanche cone from left to right under the rusty rock wall (the lowest rocky outcrop). Through the randkluft (descent into it 3–4 m) onto a rocky ledge. From the ledge, go right along the internal angle (10 m) and through a cleft (20 m, pitons) to a ledge. Up to the left along the ledges to a snow-ice couloir (30 m). Along the couloir upwards (60 m) on scree ledges bypassing the upper part of the first rocky outcrop. From the left along the edge of the snow to the right along the destroyed rocks (40 m) to a saddle. On the saddle is the 1st control point. Along the saddle, bypassing the second rocky outcrop to the right (60 m), closer to the rocks along the left couloir. The couloir separates the left and right counterforts. Exit to the left onto the rocks and up to the left (40 m) to the ridge. Along the ridge (120 m, rocks are destroyed). On the ridge, there is snow (ice underneath). A wall (85°, 3 m), in the middle part of the wall, there are only handholds (difficult). After the wall, there is a saddle leading to a rocky gendarme. On the saddle is the 2nd control point. The saddle is snow-ice (step chopping required). After the saddle, go up along the rocky sections to the right of the ice slope. A small gendarme dividing the couloir, along the internal angle passing spirally along the gendarme (60 m). Crossing snowfields, to the right along the heavily destroyed rocks (90 m). The rusty rocks end. Along the snow-ice slope (40 m) and along the black rocks (80 m) to the ridge. Along the ridge (to the right of the snow-ice slope – 60 m) to the pre-summit tower. Along steep destroyed rocks, bypassing the tower to the right along the ice couloir separating the left and right counterforts (250–300 m) to a saddle. From the saddle along the ridge to the summit. From the summit, descend to a snow saddle. On the lower side of the ridge is an overnight stop.

From the overnight stop, descend along the heavily destroyed rocky-snow ridge, bypassing gendarmes to the left and right to the Skaazsky pass. From the pass, descend to the camp.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBERS

1. Group size - not more than 4 people.
2. The set of pitons should be diverse: from leaf-shaped to wedges.
3. The route is prone to rockfall, rocks are heavily destroyed. Pay attention to thorough belaying.
4. Helmets are mandatory.
5. In the second half of the season - 1 pair of crampons per group.