img-0.jpeg

Fig. 32

  1. Peak Artsishevskogo via the East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 32).

The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac at Volginsky night camps is described in route 99.

From Volginsky night camps, head to the Uilpatinsky Glacier, turn right, and approach the center of the wide, gently sloping (in its lower part) first snow-ice couloir on the right via the glacier's snow plateau. The couloir descends from the Tsey Ridge saddle, situated between Peak Oniiani on the right and the Uilarh massif on the left.

Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge from the glacier. Bypassing the rocky ridge rising through the center of the couloir on the left, ascend the right side of the gradually steepening ice-snow couloir (avalanches and rockfall possible - piton belay) to the snowy saddle (large cornice) of the ridge.

From Volginsky night camps - 1 hour.

At the saddle, turn left and ascend a 45-50-meter steep snowy slope to the East Ridge of Peak Artsishevskogo. Follow the occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) 200-meter East Ridge to a destroyed rocky ledge. Traverse a 40-50-meter ledge on the left side of the rocky ridge to reach a snowy slope, then approach the rocky tower of Peak Artsishevskogo. Ascend 60 meters directly up the simple to moderately difficult rocks of the tower's wall ("loose" rocks, piton belay) to the summit.

From under the tower's wall, it is possible to:

  • descend 25-30 meters down the snowy slope to the left,
  • traverse a 3-meter chimney,
  • then follow 10-12-meter smooth slabs,
  • and finally exit left onto a snowy shoulder via a snowy slope.

From the shoulder:

  • follow a steep snowy slope,
  • then ascend simple, heavily destroyed rocks to reach the summit of Peak Artsishevskogo.

From Volginsky night camps - 3-3.5 hours.

Descend via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2-3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), Moscow, "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment