- Ullauuz via South Spurring Ridge — category of difficulty (G. Chunovkin, Yu. Komarov, A. Pugachev, V. Stankevich, Yu. Shevchenko and I. Shestipalov, August 24, 1964).
The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the South ridge of the Utug pinnacle see in description 18.
From the bivouac:
- Descend from the ridge to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall
- Ascend along the plateau, then along the snowy rise to the upper snowy plateau of the cirque, formed by the peaks Ullauuz and Kundyum-Mizhyrgi
- Behind the South spurring ridge of the Ullauuz peak, visible from the bivouac, to the left (rope ties!) and along the first snowy couloir
- Then, along the scree, an 80–100-meter ascent to the saddle of the South spurring ridge above the "Finger"
- On the saddle, there's a control cairn
From the saddle:
- Up along the spurring ridge
- The first pinnacle is bypassed on the left by a 60-meter traverse along snow-covered simple rocks (belay?)
- The second pinnacle is ascended via a poorly defined internal 40-meter corner, which goes from the central part of the pinnacle upwards to the left (pitons!)
- 10 m descent from the pinnacle
- Then, ascend along the ridge to the saddle under the third pinnacle
- Straight up a 35-meter wall with a crack onto the pinnacle (pitons! second control cairn!)
- Further, 100–120 m along the left side of the spurring ridge to the fourth pinnacle
- The fourth pinnacle is initially bypassed by a 25–30-meter traverse to the left upwards to the corner with a crack
- Then, along the corner, 35–40 m upwards (pitons!) onto the pinnacle
- From the pinnacle, a 70–80 m ascent along the sharp rocky ridge to the shoulder under the tower (belay!)
- Along snow-covered ledges and slabs, a 60-meter traverse under the tower to the right, to the couloir
- Up the couloir, 160–200 m to the saddle of the West ridge
- From the saddle, upwards along simple rocks and scree, ascend to the peak Ullu-Auzbashi
The total time from the initial bivouac to the peak is 6–7 hours.
The descent is via the South couloir — see description 19.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants — 4 people.
- Initial bivouac — South ridge of the Utug pinnacle.
- Departure time — 4:00.
- Equipment: main rope — 2×30 m; main rappel rope — 4 m; rock pitons — 4–5; ice screws — 2; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 8–9; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
- Bivouac sites — only on the Kundyum-Mizhyrgi glacier or its moraines.