Main Dykhtau via the right-hand Southern counterfort — Category 5A (V. Egorov, O. Ilyinsky, A. Kolchin, I. Kudinov, V. Ovsyannikov and V. Toropov — July 7, 1960; Figs. 25, 26, 27).

The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the scree ridge under the Southern wall of the Main Dykhtau peak is described in route 73.

From the scree ridge:

• up and left across a snowy plateau
• up a rocky snowy gully to a broad scree shelf running along the entire Southern wall of the Dykhtau massif.

Along the shelf to the right, crossing:

• two 40–50 m ice-snow gullies (stonefall hazard!)
• and down a 3–4 m wall (“live” rocks!) into a narrow snowy gully (stonefall hazard!).

Up and right through the gully to reach the heavily broken rocks of the right-hand Southern counterfort of Main Dykhtau peak.

150–170 m up the broken easy rocks of the right-hand counterfort to a shoulder below a 70–80 m rock belt.

To ascend it:

• up a 40 m cleft (without backpacks! hooked belay!), right of the left-hand ice-filled vertical groove
• then up a steep 30 m ice-snow gully.

From the gully, up and right across 20–25 m slabs to a shelf (control cairn!).

From the shelf, 200 m straight up across smooth slabs (hooked belay!).

Climb the 7–9 m wall in the centre of the slab via the inside corner, exiting right onto a poorly-defined ridge.

From the slabs:

• 70–80 m up and right across the right-hand wall and inside corners to easy slabs
• up them and after 90–100 m left into an ice-snow gully.

Up its left-hand side (stonefall!) 100–120 m to below the second rock pitch (belt).

From the gully, 15 m up the right-hand side of the wall (without backpacks! hooked belay!) to a shelf.

Along the shelf and moderately difficult rocks:

• 90 m right (pitons!)
• and from the rock “fin” 40 m up and right across the wall (pitons!).

Then 90–100 m along a snowy ridge and slope to reach the confluence of the right-hand and Central Southern counterforts of Main Dykhtau peak.

On the snowy saddle above the third jandarm — a bivouac.

From the initial bivouac on the scree ridge — around 12 hours.

The further ascent to Main Dykhtau peak is described in route 73.

The descent via the Northern ridge or the Central Southern gully is described in routes 71 or 83.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–5 people.
2. Initial bivouac — scree ridge below the Southern wall of Main Dykhtau peak.
3. Departure time — 4–5 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; expendable cordelette — 10 m; cordelette for descent — 40 m; rock pitons — 12–15; ice pitons — 5–6; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 12–14; tent — 1.
5. Bivouac sites — on the broad scree shelf of the Southern wall of the Dykhtau massif, on the area by the control cairn, on the 8–10 m wall (slab) below the first rock belt, on the 100–120 m pitch before the 60 m traverse right, below the fifth jandarm “Tooth”, on the ridge below the summit tower and on the descent routes.