138. Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan Se­ver­na­ya (North peak) via North­west ridge (combined route, 3A category, fig. 14, 15). From “Che­gem” tourist base (4-8 people group) follow the forest trail on the left bank of Gara­auz­su river upstream. After crossing Tyu­tyur­gu river, turn left and move up, first across alpine meadows and then across moraines along the right and then left bank of Tyu­tyur­gu river till reaching the tongue of Tyu­tyur­gu glacier. Move to the glacier and go along its left side (closed crevasses), bypass numerous crevasses and two icefalls from the left, ascend to the upper cirque of the glacier. In the cirque, turn left and approach the middle of the three snow couloirs descending from the Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Ascend via simple snow and then scree couloir to the scree col of Tyu­tyur­gu pass. Make a bivouac on the col. 4-5 hours from “Che­gem” tourist base. The path to Se­ver­na­ya (North) branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier via Ko­ru pass is described in route 135.

Descend from Tyu­tyur­gu pass to the South branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier, turn right and ascend along the left slopes of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Having passed two gendarmes, turn right. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend a steep snow slope to the col (cornice) of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak, to the left of a small sharp gendarme.

On the col, turn left and ascend simple, destroyed, snow-covered rocks along Northwest ridge, passing I and II gendarmes. Further, ascend simple snow Northwest ridge (cornices), then a wide ice-snow slope to reach a snow dome. From the dome, ascend a simple, gently sloping snow Northwest ridge to approach the rocky ascent to West shoulder.

Ascend simple, inclined, destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the ascent (protection):

• 80-100 m ascent to West shoulder.

From the shoulder, ascend a simple snow Northwest ridge, then a steep ice-snow ascent (pitons protection), 100-120 m, to the top of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan Za­pad­na­ya (West peak).

The top can also be reached via rocks, having moved to them from the ridge below the ascent with a 20 m traverse to the right.

From West peak, descend 100-120 m down steep, simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks to the col below Se­ver­na­ya (North) peak. From the col, ascend a wide ice-snow ridge-slope (cornice) to the top of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan Se­ver­na­ya (North peak). 5-6 hours from the initial bivouac.