250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour.

The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233.

From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge.

On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge.

Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.

Beyond the gendarme:

  • 270-300 m up along the snowy (cornices) Western ridge with two steep ascents;
  • further along the snow-covered 60-80 meter rocks of medium difficulty of the ridge, ascent to the II gendarme and descent from it to the bridge under the III gendarme.

From the bridge:

  • 15 m up along the ridge, then traverse to the right to the slabs;
  • along the slabs, ascent of above medium difficulty under the vertical wall of the summit of the III gendarme;
  • traverse under the wall to the right to reach the bridge under the IV gendarme.

From the bridge:

  • 40 m up along the ridge, then traverse 20 m to the right;
  • rappel 40 m from the wall and further traverse;
  • approach the ice-snow couloir and ascend it to the platform of the Western ridge, under its 300-meter ascent.

On the platform - bivouac. From the initial bivouac 8-10 hours.

The 300-meter ascent is bypassed by traversing 160-180 m to the left with a slight gain in height along the ice-snow slope, alternating with slabs.

Then:

  • 120 m up to the right along snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty;
  • further along the ice-snow slope;
  • along destroyed snow-covered steep rocks of medium difficulty, ascent 100-120 m to the 300-meter ascent of the Western ridge.

On the southern side of this ridge there is a platform. From the previous bivouac to the platform under the ascent 4-6 hours.

From here, 300-350 m along the heavily destroyed, simple and medium difficulty Western ridge with several steep ascents, failures and ice-snow ridges (cornices) - exit to the platform.

From the platform:

  • along the simple ridge approach the Popov wall (the most difficult part of the route);
  • along the difficult rocks of the wall with a small number of holds - traverse up-left to a wide crack;
  • along the crack - difficult ascent to a small inclined shelf;
  • from the right side of the shelf - 10-12 m up-right along a smooth steep slab with a small number of holds;
  • further - along simple rocks, exit to the Popov wall.

Along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the Western ridge or its right side - exit to the platform under the Black gendarme.

Along the center of the gendarme - ascent to its middle.

Then:

  • along the shelf,
  • further along rocks of medium difficulty - bypass the gendarme by traversing to the right.

Beyond the Black gendarme - continue traversing along the right side of the Western ridge.

Sources

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