
- Bashkara via North Counterfort and West Ridge (K. Egger's route, cat.4A). From the “Jantugan” alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) ascend via the trail on the left bank of the Adylsu River, then cross via a natural stone bridge to its right bank and continue along the trail beside the river upstream to the hut on the “Green Hotel” glade not far from the tongue of the Jankuat Glacier. From “Green Hotel” turn right and ascend via a gentle trail in the hollow between the left-bank moraine of the Bashkara Glacier on the right and the slopes of the North spur of Jantugan Peak on the left. Then ascend right onto the moraine. At the end of the moraine lies the initial bivouac. From the moraine, get onto the left side of the Bashkara Glacier. Ascend the glacier, cross its left branch descending from the ridge col connecting Bashkara and Jantugan, and reach the foot of the rocks on the left side of the North Counterfort descending from the ridge lowering between Bashkara Peak on the left and Ullukar Peak on the right. From “Green Hotel” 1.5–2 hours. From the glacier, ascend via a steep snow slope, bypass the lower rocky outcrop of the counterfort on the left, and reach the foot of the rocky wall. Bypass the wall on the right with an exit into a couloir and ascend 80–100 m via easy to moderately difficult rocks, partly snow-covered, to a ridge platform (belay!). From the glacier 3–4 hours. Then, ascend via severely broken rocks of the ridge or its right side to a platform below an ice-and-snow slope. On the platform lies a bivouac. From the point of exit onto the ridge 3–4 hours. From the platform (crampons, piton belay!), ascend 120–150 m via a steep ice-and-snow slope onto the rocks of the upper part of the counterfort. From here, ascend via snow-covered, severely broken, easy to moderately difficult rocks, then via a 120-meter ice-and-snow ridge (cornices, piton belay!) to the ridge col between Ullukar Peak on the right and Bashkara Peak on the left. From the counterfort bivouac 4–5 hours. From the col, turn left and ascend via snow fields and slopes onto the rocks of the West Ridge of Bashkara Peak. Ascend via easy snow-covered rocks onto the West shoulder of the peak. From the tower on the shoulder, descend via easy rocks of the ridge, then via a short rappel into a pass. Then, ascend via easy, sharp, and broken ridge with several easy “gendarme” peaks to the foot of the summit rise. Ascend via an ice-and-snow couloir or moderately difficult rocks of the West Ridge onto the summit of Bashkara. From the point of exit onto the main ridge 2–2.5 hours. Descent via the North-East Ridge (see route 142). Total duration 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope — 2 × 30 m, accessory cord — 3 m, rock pitons — 8–10, ice screws — 3–4, rock hammers — 2, carabiners — 10–11, crampons — 4 pairs, tent — 1. Possible bivouac locations — on all platforms and snow sections of the counterfort and ridge. (“Baksan Valley”, A.F. Naumov)