Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class: Rock

2. Ascent Region: Kyrgyz Republic, Inylchektau ridge, Maidaadyr tract.
3. Peak, Route: First ascent of peak 4090 m, FALS (Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing of the Kyrgyz Republic), from the north via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated Difficulty Category: 1B
5. Elevation Gain: 1530 m.
6. Total Route Length: 4240 m.
7. Length of Key Sections: 48 m.

• Of which, 2 cat. diff. 48 m.

8. Number of Pitons: rock, ice, and bolted.

The route via Novomoy­greche J-a­n.....

Snapshot from the Transcarpathian summit

Photo MII General photo of the summit —

• team route
• route via N.face, 5A cat. diff.
• route via N.W. face
• traverse 5Е cat. diff.
• δ — control tower
• (○) — overnight locations The photo was taken on July 13, 1964, at 7°0, lens "Industar" 26 M, F=5 cm, distance to the summit 2 km, point M2, 3650 m.

ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SIMVOLDS, 1:5000

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent: winter
2. Region of ascent: Tian-Shan.
3. Peak Korona (4855 m) from the North
4. Category of difficulty: 5B (approximate) first ascent
5. Route characteristics: route length — 1395 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness of the route (bergshrund — plateau) — 64°
6. Number of pitons: rock, bolt, nut, and ice protection elements — 60

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock. 2. Ascent region, ridge — Tian-Shan, Ak-Sai gorge, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4240 (p. Ratsek) via the center of the northern wall. 4. Difficulty category — 5-6 cat. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 640 m, length of 5-6 cat. sections — 563 m, average steepness — 75° 6. Pitons hammered in: a) for belay: rock — 75, ice — 63, bolt — 11; b) for creating belay anchors: rock — 37

Route diagram in symbols.

v. Korona, 5th tower in the center of SW wall, V. Balezina route, Tian-Shan, April 7, 1996

PASS:

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, "Ak-sai" gorge.
3. v. Korona, 5th tower, in the center of SW wall.
4. 6A category of complexity, V. Balezina route.
5. Height difference 640 m. Distance 720 m. Distance of sections:
   • 5 category of complexity — 420 m.
   • 6 category of complexity — 70 m.

Mestia route via the Southwest Ridge, Category 1B

Route Description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" recreation center and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of these has Mestian overnight stays. Climbing to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of the large hitching post on which the Mestian hut is located; we go around the hitching post on the left and climb onto it. There are small crevices under the hitching post. From the Mestia Hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. The path continues along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large glacier crevices are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again emerge onto a large firn plateau, along which we move in the direction of the Mestia Pass. From the Mestia Pass, we turn left and move across the vast firn plateau towards the snow pyramid of Mestia-Tau. Crevices are possible on the left as we proceed. Descent is via the ascent route. The median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier