51. Osh — Glavnaya via the North Slope of the East Buttress of the South Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1500 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 4.5–5 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac on the light moraine in the upper cirque of the Kurgan valley — see route 10. From the initial bivouac:

• Ascend the broad slope of the northern spur, composed of small and medium talus, to the right of the base of the East Buttress, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop on the left and the upper one on the right.
• Above it, make a 60-meter traverse left along simple, broken rocks on the left side to bypass the 1st sentinel of the saddle.
• Behind the sentinel, reach the crest of the saddle below the 2nd large sentinel.
• Ascend steep, broken rocks of medium difficulty along the 80-meter crest (pitons for protection) to the 2nd sentinel.
• Cairn.

48. Osh Zapadnaya via South Ridge.

The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".

Description

Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range

Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent. The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya". From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya". After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.

4. Pervomayskaya via the southern slope

The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 10, 11). Length — 1500 m, height difference — 450 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (a group of 2–10 people) cross the Kurgan River by bridge and ascend along the road on the left side of the Kurgan valley. After going around a green hill with juniper forest, ford the stream that flows from the left into the Kurgan River, and ascend along the road on the left side of the Kurgan upper valley. Then, cross the stream from the Kurgan Pass and ascend along the trail in the direction of the left side of the Kumbel Pass. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. Without approaching the slopes of the pass, turn left and ascend along a wide scree ridge on

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. CATEGORY — TECHNICAL
2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAI range
3. PEAK — BORIS RUCHYOV peak 4555 m first ascent via the first northern couloir of the eastern spur (combined)
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
5. Height difference — 600 m. Sections of 5th–6th diff. cat. — none.

Group Equipment

I. Main rope 40 m - 3 pcs. 2. Rock pitons - 10 pcs. 3. Carabiners - 10 pcs. 4. Hammers - 2 pcs. 5. Ladders - 4 pcs.

III. Peak Sur-ToO

Ascent via the south-eastern ridge, route 1A cat. difficulty (see diagram in Fig. 2). The route was traversed on October 31, 1972 by a group consisting of Inozemtsev Yu.P. (leader), Telbuh P.A., Nehaenko A.A.

Location of the summit and ascent routes

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area, Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge
3. Peak Tavriya, height 4605 m, ascent route via the western ridge
4. Proposed category difficulty 2B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, section length 5–6 km, average slope 40°
6. Pitons hammered: For belay:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

18. Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge. The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30). Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge. Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.

Otechestvennoy voyny 18 c.t. from l. 3 Ordzhonikidze along the S ridge

Route description.

Initial bivouac on the right lateral moraine of Tuyksu glacier. From here, move in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Ordzhonikidze peak. Before reaching it, turn left. Ascend a steep scree to the terminal part of Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier, then traverse it to a drop, bypass it on the right, and continue ascending the scree to the last ridge of rocks descending from Mayakovsky peak. From here, begin ascending the western ridge. Traverse easy, broken rocks or, further to the right, a couloir filled with small and medium scree. Upon reaching the ridge, continue moving towards the col between Mayakovsky and Otechestvennoy voyny peaks (50–60 m). Further:

• Scree, followed by broken rocks, will lead to the beginning of the southern ridge of "Otechestvennoy voyny" peak.
• Small gendarmes on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. To rejoin the ridge, overcome a couloir ending in a steep rocky section (pitons, 2–3 hooks). After overcoming several gendarmes directly, reach the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations: