II category

Technical category I 2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge 3. Peak Jigit via the right part of the North face 4. Proposed — 6 cat., first ascent 5. Height difference from the bergschrund 1070 m, total route length 1125 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. 705 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice |

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak "Dzhigit", via the north face — 5B category
4. Route by A.G. Ryabukhin, climbed in 1965
5. Height difference: 998 m, length — 1177 m. Length of sections with 5 category difficulty — 397 m. Average steepness of sections — 60°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Ascent Log

1. Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too, category "7.10.(41)" according to the classification table
2. Peak name: Jigit (5170 m), route name: via the north face (Ryabukhin, 65)
3. Proposed category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1170 m (by altimeter); including wall section: 970 m. Route length: 1292 m. Length of sections: category V — 249 m, category VI — 185 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 72°, entire route — 68°.
6. Pitons left on the route:

Climbing class — technical. Area of climb: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too. Climbing route with peak height — traversing the center of the north face of Pik Dzigit (5170 m). Climb characteristics: height difference 1370 m (without seracs), average steepness 78°, length of complex section 1270 m. Piton usage: standing, chock stones 163, ice screws 35, bolted 3. Total hours of climbing — 35. Number of nights and characteristics — 2 nights on the wall in hammocks, in "Pamirka" tents. Team name: team of Omsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification: Kudashkin Yuri Valentinovich — Master of Sports, captain

ASCENT REPORT

1. Region, valley, classification table section number (2001): Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.44a
2. Peak name, route name: Dzhigit, via the center of the North face
3. Climbing category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1220 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1355 m. Length of sections: V category: 820 m, VI category: 370 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route: 78°

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan (Karakol) 3. Climbing route — p. Dzhigit 5170 via the triangle of the northern wall (Sharashanidze). 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route description: elevation gain — 110 m (to the ridge) average steepness — 68° average steepness of the complex section — 85° length of the complex section (length of the section with 5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m route length — 1200 m (to the ridge)

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Kok-bor gorge
3. Peak Jigit (V), 5170 m, via NE ridge (Furman, 73)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1370 m Length — 1840 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 540 m Average steepness of main sections 63° (4100–4950) Including 6 category of difficulty (40 m) — 82° (4350–4360; 4470–4480; 4800–4820)
6. Pitons hammered in:

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1965 USSR TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM. HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS. REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF KRAKOL'SKY PEAK 5280 m NORTH-EAST COUNTERFORT (TIAN-SHAN, TERSKEY ALA-TAU RANGE) BY THE KIRGHIZ REssoyuzsport TEAM ON JULY 25-30, 1965. Frunze, 1965 LENGNIK Olgert Mikhaylovich — Master of Sports, participant. Works as a researcher, physicist. Karabalty settlement, Kalinin district, Kirghiz SSR. Has been involved in alpinism since 1952. Participates in the USSR championship for the second time. 1965. Inspection of the counterfort in profile from the western side and 2) "testing" the state of snow when the temperature regime changes throughout the day.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area (№ according to KTMGV) — Terskey Ala-Too, № p/p.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Karakolsky, 5281 m, North face (along the "snake").
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1631 m average steepness — 62° (wall) length of sections:
   • R1 — 80 m

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.