Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Kergely, 3750 m, northwestern counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness of the wall section — 55°, total route — 35°, length of sections: 1—..., 2—100 m, 3—345 m, 4—130 m, 5—...

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock climbing
2. Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Ascent of peak "4200" via the North Edge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: 720 m, route length: 960 m, of which 5–6 category of difficulty: 420 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 60 | — | 25 | — |

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall.
3. Difficulty category: 6A.
4. Route characteristics: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |

The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".

Description

Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range

Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent. The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya". From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya". After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — "Ob'edinennykh natsiy", 3900 m, NW ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m average steepness — 65° length of sections: 3 – 45 m, 4 – 85 m, 5 – 130 m
6. Pitons driven:

Description

Via the Northwest Ridge

First ascent to the peak "Pioneer", height 3923 m

(above sea level), Ugam Range (Western Tian Shan).

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. Peak "Pioner" 3800 m via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 96 m, 4th category of difficulty — 35 m, 5th category of difficulty — 36 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, placed cams — 4
7. Number of climbing hours — 10
8. Number of nights stayed — none
9. Full name of the leader and participants:

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the right 3rd buttress of the N wall (4238 m).
3. Difficulty category: approximately 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: combined.
5. Height difference of the wall section: 574 m, route length: 1420 m, wall section length: 620 m, section lengths:
   • 5th difficulty category – 290 m,
   • 6th difficulty category – 20 m, average steepness of the wall section: 69°, entire route: 60°.
6. Hooks left on the route: total – 1.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: SAYRAM, route via the right buttress of the North face.
3. Assumed to be 5B cat. sl. First ascent.
4. Nature of the route: rock.
5. Height difference: 913 m. Route length: 1127 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. sl. — 504 m.
• VI cat. sl. — 73 m.

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.