I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-su valley 3. Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the East ridge, combined 4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent 5. Height difference 570 m, length 1320 m. Length of sections category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 40 m. Average slope of the route 27°, average slope of the couloir 30°, average slope of the ridge 20°, slope of the summit tower wall 60° 6. Pitons driven: rock 40, chockstones 30 7. Climbing hours — 19, days — 2 8. Overnight stay: 1st on a site prepared on a snowy ridge 9. Leader: Viktor Pruss, 1st sports category. Participants: Serafim Vasiliev, 1st sports category. Valentin Litskevich, 1st sports category. Izolda Shaginyan, Master of Sports of the USSR 10. Coach: Yuri Kozlov, Master of Sports of the USSR

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region, range — Pamiro-Alay, Turkestan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky), via the right counterfort of the SW wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A, combined.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 620 m length of 5–6 sections — 130 m, average steepness — 45°
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 60 (rock) for creating artificial holds — 8

Climbing Passport

1. Category: Technical
2. Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Asu gorge.
3. Summit: Iskander via the eastern wall
4. Route: Combined, first ascent, approximately 5B category difficulty
5. Elevation gain: 1049 m
6. Average slope of the route: 66°
7. Average slope of the wall section: 75°
8. Route length: 1813 m
9. Pitons used: rock — 66, chocks — 133, bolts — 1

120 m 70–80° I

Passport

I. Altai Katunsky ridge. Akkem gorge. 2. Mt. Boris, NE slope, height 3375 m. 3. Proposed 3A–3B cat. dif. (first ascent). 4. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1000 m. 5. Average steepness of the key section of the route 45–50°. 6. Climbing hours (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 h. 7. Used pitons: ice screws — 8 8. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS Participants:

1.1. Russian Mountaineering Championship. Ice and Snow Ascent Class

Report

On the first ascent to Belukha (V) peak via the right part of the NW wall by the team from the Mountain-Altai Emergency Rescue Service (PSS) of the EMERCOM of Russia, Gorno-Altaysk. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33. Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya St., 26, apt. 2.

Passport

1. Class: ice and snow
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-kem gorge

Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Mensu gorge.
3. Belukha East, via the south-eastern slope.
4. Proposed — for category complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °.
6. Climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none.
8. Leader — Afanasyev A.E. Team members:

Ascent Profile

1. Class: ice and snow
2. Region: Altai, Akkem gorge
3. Peak: Delaunay, left part of the NW side
4. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1100 m. Length: 1600 m to the Delaunay–Belukha ridge. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 630 m, 6th category: 55 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 59°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock pitons — 7
   • chocks — 38
   • ice screws — 52

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class: Ice climb.
2. Ascent area: Altai. Katunsky ridge.
3. Peak Razdel'naya from the north, height 3556 m, snow-ice route.
4. Expected difficulty category: 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 750 m, average slope 25–30°.
6. Pitons: 3 ice screws for belaying.
7. Number of climbing hours: II–12.
8. Ascent is made from camp to camp without overnight stay.
9. Climbers:

Участok R0–R1. 200 m, 35° to the brow on the left to avoid crevasses. Deep snow. Участok R1–R2. Slope steepness increases to 45°, 150 m. Участok R2–R3. Steepness increases to 80°, 40 m. Protection using ice axes. Участok R3–R4. Labyrinth among seracs in deep snow, 200–300 m. Bridges! 7–10 m walls are encountered. Entering a hollow. Участok R4–R5. 300 m, gentle slope in the hollow. Entering under the northern slopes of Urusvati. Участok R5–R6: Bergschrund. Passing at the most convenient spot under an overhanging lower ice wall, 7 m, 90°. Участok R6–R7: 45°, 70 m, deep snow. Reaching the ridge. Участok R7–R8:

• 50 m along the ridge to the pre-summit ascent.
• The ridge abuts against the slope.