ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan (Ugamsky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Druzhba" 4100 m, Central couloir N-3 of the wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 620 m
   • average steepness: 43°
   • length of sections: II — 850 m, III — 165 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m 6.7 Number of pitons driven:

The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".

Description

Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range

Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent. The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya". From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya". After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the right 3rd buttress of the N wall (4238 m).
3. Difficulty category: approximately 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: combined.
5. Height difference of the wall section: 574 m, route length: 1420 m, wall section length: 620 m, section lengths:
   • 5th difficulty category – 290 m,
   • 6th difficulty category – 20 m, average steepness of the wall section: 69°, entire route: 60°.
6. Hooks left on the route: total – 1.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Tanassky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzholoy, 4355 m, via the North counterfort of the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5, average steepness in degrees. 800 m, 950 m, II–III — 150 m, III — 800 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial holds: Rock — 5 Ice — Bolt —

3. The summit, its height, the ascent route — Tene, 3870 m, via the northern ridge.
4. The supposed category of difficulty — 1B category.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of the section R1–R5 category, average steepness in degrees — 1000 m, 1500 m — 1 category; 40°–45°.
6. Pitons hammered in for belaying to create artificial support points — Rock pitons — 3 pcs. Ice screws — 1 pc. Bolt pitons —
7. Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics —
9. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification:
10. Paraev B. N. — Master of Sports

V. Teke (3870 m) via the East Ridge, Cat. 2B

(from "Nefertiti" campsite – 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross to the other side of the stream and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky ridges of the massif. The landmark should be a prominent gendarme at the top of the ridge, strongly resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress. This is the ridge along which the route goes. The ascent up the snowy couloir (becoming scree-covered by the end of the season) takes about 2 hours; then, after a large rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, it is necessary to move rightwards onto the ridge – this takes 30–40 minutes.

Route Start

• The first gendarme is bypassed on the left.
• 35–40 m of free climbing, followed by a cairn.
• Then proceed along the ridge for 130–150 m with simultaneous belay. Rocky sections are bypassed on the left.
• 30–40 m of straightforward climbing leading to the ridge.
• Directly along the ridge – a gendarme, difficult climbing, 12 m long.
• Followed by a sharp snowy crest with a 35° slope, 15 m long, belay via ice axe.

1. Class — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak — Belaya via the North ridge, height 4760 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 575 m, length of sections by category: II — 620 m, III — 360 m, IV — 170 m, average steepness — 29°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 18, ice — ?; for anchors and organization: rock — ?, ice — ?.
7. Total climbing hours — 9.5 hours.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical (combined)
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kollektor Range, DUGOBA-SHIGOU river valley.
3. Peak: DUGOBA-SHIGOU (4800 m), via the ice slab on the Western ridge, combined route.
4. Category 4A difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 650 m, length of Category IV sections 250 m, average steepness of the snow-ice part 45°.
6. Pitons used on the route: rock 8 ice 23 chocks 5

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Class. 2. Pamir-Alai, horseshoe of Cosmonauts 3. Nikolaeva Peak, height 4900, ascent along the Eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of the section: 5 cat. diff. — 8 m 4 cat. diff. — 50 m

At the 1977 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m)

Alaisky ridge, Pamir-Alai, Cosmonauts' Horseshoe. (first ascent) Combined team of Dnipropetrovsk regional council of the Spartak Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports Petrychenko N.N. Participants:

• Candidate Master of Sports Protsenko L.V.
• Zurabishvili Z.D.
• Rybalka K.P. Dnipropetrovsk — 1977