Traverse of the Dinamovets - Dzhamalaktau peaks, 3A category of difficulty route (see fig. 18). The route to the Dinamovets peak is described in the section on ascending the Dinamovets peak from the southwest. From the Dinamovets peak, descend along the northern ridge, bypassing the subpeak on the left. Further, along a 250 m long snow-ice slope. In the lower part, the slope steepness is 50-55°. This section is prone to avalanches and ends with a sharp ridge with steep slope drops. Traverse this ridge. In the middle part of the ridge, there is a gendarme. Cornices are present. Ascend and descend the gendarme via the frozen rocks. Further, a rocky ridge with gendarmes is traversed; the first one is bypassed, while the second one is taken head-on via a ledge with a deviation to the right. Exit onto a snow area. Traverse a snowy ridge, bypassing a gendarme via a ledge on the right. Transition from the ledge to the slope, bypassing the outer corner, is challenging. The next gendarme is bypassed on the right. Exit onto the Tumanny pass. Overnight stay is possible here. The ascent to Dzhamalaktau begins with a small snowy couloir leading to a snowy saddle. Then, traverse a destroyed rocky ridge. Encountered gendarmes are bypassed on the left; the last one is taken head-on via an inner corner. Exit onto the summit via a couloir with snow and talus. Descend from the summit towards the Solnechny pass via destroyed rocks, then via a couloir with regelation ice, up to 100 m long. From the couloir, exit onto a ridge with a gendarme, which is taken on the left. Further:

• Descend along a snow-ice slope to easy rocks
• Traverse a snow-ice couloir
• Move along easy rocks to the Solnechny pass saddle. From the Solnechny pass, descend along snow and talus to the Solnechny glacier. Traverse the left side to the prospectors' hut, and from it, follow the trail to the camp. The entire traverse takes up to 13 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

Climbing Area Map

Profile, view from the southwest. Profile, view from the south. Profile, view from the southwest. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE Note: Pitons used to create artificial holds are indicated by a fraction. From the Talgar alp camp, follow the trail up the Sredny Talgar River to the Severny Talgar glacier, then up the Severny Talgar glacier. Overnight at the moraine at the foot of the IyinTau slope.

INETAU (4038 m)

Ascent from the Constitution Glacier, route 1B cat. complexity (fig. 4). The INETAU peak is located in the northern spur extending from the 10 Years of Kazakh SSR peak and separating the Toguzak Glacier from the Constitution Glacier. It is a pronounced eminence on the ridge. From the Toguzak Glacier side, it appears as a sharp needle on a snowy base, while from the Constitution Glacier side, the summit tower rises amidst a jumble of rocky debris from the destroyed ridge. From the initial bivouac, conveniently set up on the right moraine of the Toguzak Glacier, cross the terminal moraines of the glacier towards the talus at the start of the ridge. Ascend the talus to the ridge. Cross the ridge to reach the right lateral moraine of the Constitution Glacier. Follow the moraine ridge to an isolated rock near the ridge, and from there, via a gully, exit onto the ridge to a gendarme composed of red rocks. The first control cairn is located on it. Bypass the next gendarme to the left on snow (ice is possible!). Subsequent gendarmes are bypassed on both sides. After them, cross a small couloir between the main ridge and a group of rocks to the right. Continue along the ridge of moderately difficult rocks upwards to a distinct gendarme. The second cairn is located here. Descend from it onto a snowy-icy saddle before a table-like gendarme and bypass it to the right. Then, ascend medium rocks and talus to a tower with a snowy belt. The ascent to it involves the following sections:

• medium rocks
• inclined slabs

The summit of Kara-Tas is located in the lateral ridge of the Novy spur, Zailiyskiy Alatau range. This ridge starts from the Jambul peak and runs in a north-eastern direction. To the north of the summit lies the Yuzhny TBU glacier, and to the south - a branch of the Shaklskiy glacier. The route begins from the moraine of the Yuzhny TBU glacier, heading in the direction and reaching the ridge at the saddle between the second and third gendarmes via a wide scree couloir or rock outcrops. A gendarme resembling a finger visible from the glacier can serve as a landmark; it remains on the right during ascent. The first cairn is built on the saddle. From the saddle, move towards the finger (third gendarme), which is bypassed on the right. The fourth gendarme is bypassed on the right along snowy rocks, for a distance of three rope lengths. The rocks are heavily damaged. Alternate belay is necessary. The next gendarmes (5, 6, and 7) are bypassed on the right without reaching the saddles. The rock "saw" is bypassed to the left, without reaching the saddles, followed by an ascent to the ridge along an internal angle (alternate belay). The large 8th gendarme, resembling a bastion, is ascended immediately to the left along moderately difficult rocks. The second cairn is built on the ridge after the eighth gendarme. Then, proceed along the ridge of the Eastern shoulder. Initially, there are rocks, followed by a small snowy plateau. Belay is necessary when reaching the plateau. The plateau transitions into a snowy ridge with a series of gendarmes that are bypassed. Simultaneous movement is permissible here. The ridge leads to a wide rocky ascent, 70–80 m high. Ascent to the rise:

• via scree couloirs and rocks, exiting onto a lateral ridge;
• then along it to the rise. Belay is alternate.

Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Kara-Tau via the Southwest Ridge

Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau range. Covered in eternal snows, it stretches in a latitudinal direction for over 200 km. In its central part, it takes a direction close to meridional and reaches a height of five kilometers in the powerful Talgar trapezoid. East of Talgar is the peak Metallurg, whose pyramid rises to 4800 meters; to the southwest is Iyn-Tau, which raises its summit to 4830 meters. Against this backdrop, all other peaks seem like dwarfs, not representing sporting interest for climbers. But this is not the case. To the north of Metallurg peak, a spur called Ala-Tas (Motley stones) extends. In this spur, beyond the Taverentava pass, lies the Kara-Tau peak (Black mountain), for which the usual path via the Taverentava pass is not difficult and is classified as category 2A. From the west, three rocky ridges lead to the Kara-Tau peak, each representing significant sporting interest and considerable difficulty to overcome:

• the first ridge;
• the second ridge;
• the third ridge.

Ascent to the peak Kopr from the north-west, route 4б difficulty category (Fig. 45 а) From the Talgar alpine camp:

• up the trail going past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge;
• further along the trail to the Ozerny glacier;
• along the right lateral moraine;
• then along the glacier to the foot of the Kopr peak. Here, on the moraine, is the overnight stay. From the camp to the overnight stay is 3–3.5 hours walk. The route begins with an ascent up a snowy slope with a steepness of 30° and goes up to a large hollow. In the second half of summer, the glacier is cleared of snow, and crevices are open. From the overnight stay to the hollow is 4 hours walk. Movement is with alternate belay through ice screws. Sometimes the use of crampons is required. From the hollow to a rocky island having a characteristic triangular shape. The rocks are not difficult. In the upper part of the rocks is the 1st control cairn. The route further goes sharply to the right, crossing the ice slope, steepness up to 50°, length up to 80 m. Belay is with pitons. Step cutting is required. Exit to broken rocks. This section begins with a wall, which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Move with alternate belay. At the top is the 2nd control cairn. Along broken rocks to the ice slope. Further - on crampons along the ice "sabre". Belay with pitons (5 pitons). Sticking to the rocks, move up to the right onto the ridge.

Ascent from the Tagiltsev Pass, route 1Б cat. diff. (Fig. 17). The Koptau peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge between the Tagiltsev and TEU passes. The path to the Koptau peak from the Talgar alpine camp goes along the trail up the gorge to the Green Glade, then you need to:

• cross two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier;
• approach the lake at the tongue of the North TEU Glacier. Here is the overnight stay. From the bivouac site to the Tagiltsev Pass. The exit to the pass is via a couloir with small and medium scree. There are snow patches. Steepness is 30–35°. At the bottom, the couloir is wide, with a rocky ridge in the middle. In the middle part, the couloir is divided into three narrow couloirs. It's better to go along the left one, which is wider and less prone to falling rocks. After 40–50 m, the pass point is reached. From the Tagiltsev Pass, follow the snowy ridge to the south to a large inclined gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme is in its middle part. Move with caution: the rocks are destroyed. Turn right and exit to an inclined platform. Descend from the gendarme to the left, initially along the second inner corner for about five meters. Then proceed to the second destroyed gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. The further route follows the snowy ridge. There are cornices on the left, and a slope turning into an ice wall on the right. The ridge has three height drops. After an hour of movement, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the initial bivouac takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.

Route Description

The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge. To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:

• Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
• Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
• Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
• Step cutting
• Mass belaying Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.

walls up to 50 m. Piton insurance. After the wall, when exiting to the ridge, there is a place for the second overnight stay and the 2nd control tour. Further, bypassing a small gendarme on its right side. Then along a snowy-ice section to a rocky wall (3rd tour), which is overcome head-on, with traversing to the left. Then along a slope with a steepness of up to 60–65°, covered with flow ice, exit to a gentle snowy site and from it move to a rocky wall, which is traversed to the left. After the wall, approach a small steep couloir covered with flow ice. Movement along the couloir:

• starts on the right upwards,
• then deviates to the left side. After exiting the couloir - descent into a twenty-meter crevice, behind it exit to a steep ice section. After this section - ascent upwards along a steep icy scree. Behind the scree - approach to a rocky monolithic wall. Start climbing it with a traverse to the left. Exit to a narrow chute, along which climb 40 m. Piton insurance. In the upper part, when exiting, apply a "live" ladder. Caution: rocks are heavily destroyed.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.