Peak: Agepsta Route: via S slope Difficulty category: 2A Group leader: Sidushkin V.M. Ridge: Acetuka Mountain region: W Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

Report

On the first ascent of the route to the peak Agepsta via S slope

From the base camp, approach the grassy ridge leading in the direction of peak Agepsta. Ascend to the ridge and move along it until the rocky belt crossing the southern slope. Under the cliffs, cross the stream to the right-hand side and ascend a steep grassy slope with rock outcrops 50–60 meters straight up. After the slope becomes more gentle, move 250–300 meters left and upwards in the direction of a large boulder. Bypass the boulder on the left and approach the base of a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop via a 6-meter inner corner. Cross the outcrop's plateau in the direction of peak Agepsta and reach the grassy talus shelves at the base of the rocky ridge. Traverse right along the shelves for 300–400 meters to a subtle lowering of the ridge. Ascend to the ridge by moving in zigzags along the talus shelves, separated by 3–4-meter rock walls and slabby plates with a slope of 30–40° featuring loose rocks. Move along the ridge to the left until reaching the summit. From the base camp — 5–6 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.

Route safety assessment

Overall, the route is safe. The section R0–R1 is hazardous when the grass is wet. To organize belays on the rocky outcrops along this section, ice screws ("carrot" type) are necessary. On the section R4–R5, it is necessary to move in a tight group due to "live" rocks.