QUESTIONNAIRE about the work of the expedition of the State Sports Committee of the Kazakh SSR to the Dhaulagiri summit
- Name of the summit, its height, route
Dhaulagiri, 8167 m, West wall (indicate – first ascent, variation, which one on the route) difficulty category – 6B
- Dates
Departure from Moscow on March 8, 1991; arrival in Moscow on June 2, 1991.
Date of the base camp establishment: April 2, 1991.
Dates of intermediate camps establishment and their heights:
- April 3 – intermediate camp established
- April 5 – camp №1 established (h = 4800 m)
- April 12 – camp №2 established (h = 5400 m)
- April 21 – camp №3 established (h = 5780 m)
- April 28 – camp №4 established (h = 6200 m)
- May 4 – camp №5 established (h = 6900 m)
- May 9 – camp №6 established (h = 7500 m)
On which sections were ropes hung. Heights from 4200 to 7500 m.
dipozit – R1 – 12 ropes (grassy slopes). R1–R2 – 23 ropes. R2–R3 – 11 ropes. R3–R4 – 14 ropes. R4–R5 – 21 ropes. R5–R6 – 18 ropes.
- Expedition composition (including leader, coach, doctor)
| Name | Age, years, year of birth | Height reached | Oxygen use | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Valiev K.Sh. | 38 years, 1952 | Kathmandu | leader | |
| Ilyinsky E.T. | 51 years, 1940 | Base camp | deputy leader | |
| Khrshchaty V.N. | 39 years, 1951 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Prisjazhny V.V. | 28 years, 1963 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Mizambekov Z.T. | 27 years, 1964 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Dediy V.U. | 31 years, 1959 | 4800 m | no | participant |
| Shegay A.R. | 29 years, 1961 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Tselishchev A.V. | 26 years, 1964 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Savin A.B. | 35 years, 1955 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Khaibullin R.R. | 30 years, 1960 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Bukreev A.N. | 33 years, 1958 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Moiseev Yu.M. | 36 years, 1954 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Suviga V.I. | 37 years, 1953 | 8167 m | no | participant |
| Makarov | 44 years, 1947 | Base camp | doctor |
There were 2 cylinders and 1 mask in the base camp.
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Number of days of approach with a caravan: 10 days
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Caravan route (indicate villages, passes, gorges, etc.)
Naudanda – Karkineta pass – Darbang – Mayangdi-Khola river gorge.
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Sirdar's surname: Ang Furba
-
Number of porters used: 120 people
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Number of Sherpas used: – people
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Surnames and initials of climbers by groups; date of reaching the summit
May 10, 1991:
- Moiseev Yu.M.
- Bukreev A.N.
- Tselishchev A.V.
- Suviga V.I.
- Khaibullin R.R.
May 13, 1991:
- Khrshchaty V.N. (MS 1986)
- Prisjazhny V.V. (MS 1991)
- Mizambekov Z.T.
- Savin A.B. (CMS)
- Shegay A.R. (CMS)
- Injuries (indicate name of the injured, nature of the injury)
While preparing the site for camp №1, Dediy V.U. got injured – fracture of the finger of the left hand (rock slab).
- Diseases
There were minor mild illnesses caused by altitude and meteorological conditions.
- Appendix: 18 photographs.
Expedition leader, Chairman of the FAiS of the Kazakh SSR K.Sh. Valiev
S = 24 thousand with products + insurance 10.0.
Photo №1. General view indicating intermediate camps.
Photo №2. View from the first camp, H = 4800 m.
Photo №3. View from the first camp, H = 4800 m.
Photo №4. Wall near the 2nd camp, H = 5000 m.
Photo №5. Wall near the 2nd camp, H = 5000 m.
Photo №6. Wall near the 2nd camp, H = 5600 m.
Photo №7. Wall near the 2nd camp, H = 5700 m.
Photo №8. Third camp, participants Suviga V. and Moiseev Yu.
Photo №9. Wall near the 3rd camp, H = 5900 m.
Photo №10. Wall near the 3rd camp, H = 5800 m.
Photo №11. Wall near the 4th camp, H = 6000 m.
Photo №12. Wall near the 4th camp, H = 6200 m.
Photo №13. Ice section near the 4th camp, H = 6300 m.
Photo №14. Wall near the 5th camp, H = 6500 m.
Photo №15. Wall near the 5th camp, H = 6900 m.
Photo №16. Wall near the 5th camp, H = 6900 m.
Photo №17. Sixth camp, H = 7500 m.
Photo №18. On the summit of "Dhaulagiri", H = 8167 m.