Via the right edge of the central buttress of the Northwest wall, 3A cat. diff.

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Oмот river towards the Northwest wall of Oмот peak. After 1 hour, start ascending via a couloir, keeping direction towards the right edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress are bypassed on the right, approaching the key section of the route — a 15-meter wall and a 25-meter chimney with a small cornice after it. Pass the wall from left to right; the chimney — head-on with a deviation to the right in its upper part. 5–7 meters of climbing up the wall with cracks, at the junction with a steep snowy couloir, it is recommended to set up a station.

After 20 meters of careful climbing on ice-covered and moss-grown rocks, we reach the ridge of the buttress. Further:

• 40 meters of uncomplicated but steep ascent lead to a 5-meter wall,
• the wall is passed head-on with simultaneous bypassing of a gendarme on the ridge to the right.

Passing the next two inclined slabs and the chimney between them requires attentiveness, as a fall can result in a significant drop. It is recommended to:

• ascend the chimney by 2–3 meters,
• then move to the right slab,
• moving right and upwards, reach uncomplicated rocks.

After 100 meters of easy ridge movement, approach an inclined, ice-covered slab with an internal angle adjoining it on the right. It is necessary to overcome the slab, ascending as close to the angle as possible, using its overhanging parts for support and fractures for anchor points.

In the upper part of the slab, the ridge flattens and merges with the left edge of the Central buttress. Further movement along snowy slabs and hard firn leads us under the ridge of Oмот peak, where overhanging cornices should be avoided. Our buttress merges with the ridge 40 meters from the summit. Descent via an uncomplicated Category III ridge towards the base camp. Time on the route — 6 hours.

Route safety assessment

The route is logical. Potential danger, apart from the initial rocky key section, is posed by snowy, ice-covered, and moss-grown rocks and slabs along the entire route.

The ridge of the buttress in the lower and middle parts is destroyed, with many "live" stones frozen in ice. One should be very careful when passing these and setting up protection.

Sections of the ridge of Category II and III difficulty are also hazardous due to:

• the sharpness of the ridge;
• the possibility of falling onto rocky and icy slopes to the right and left of the route.

Recommendations on equipment usage

For a group of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

• 4 ropes
• helmets, crampons, ice axes for each participant
• 8–10 pitons
• 10 protection elements
• 10 quickdraws with carabiners.

Characteristic signs of the route's start

The route is clearly visible from a distance, as it represents a straight line from the base of the wall to the summit with a fork into right and left branches.

The couloir leads directly to the rocks of the right, required branch of the buttress.

To the left, the rocky bastion of the left edge of the central buttress is clearly visible, and to the right — heavily destroyed rocks that are not part of the route and chaotically adjoin the right edge in the area of R6–R7.