Mt. Ermolaeva S. (2163 m) – peak Ermolaeva (2153 m), 2A cat. diff.
From the base camp, immediately cross to the right side of the right tributary of the Ulun River and begin the ascent towards the obvious buttress of peak Sev. Ermolaeva.
First, ascend the snowy slope for about 300 m in the direction of the first "bastion" on the buttress, which is 8 m high. It is overcome head-on. Then, along the sharp snowy ridge for 50 m, approach the base of the second 20 m "bastion". Pass it on the right side through the wall. Further, after traversing 70 m of a simple ridge, reach the third 5 m "bastion". Pass it on its right side via a clearly visible internal corner.
Then, along a simple ridge, reach peak Sev. Ermolaeva. Movement along the buttress is logical and safe.
Further, move along a heavily serrated ridge for 200 m towards the foot of a large "bastion". It is passed via slabs and a wall in the center – the key point of the route. Then, another 60 m of a heavily serrated ridge with gaps, which leads to a wide snowy ridge of the summit ascent of peak Ermolaeva.
The total ascent time is 4–5 hours. Descent is via the S. ridge on route 1B cat. diff.
Route Safety Assessment
The route is ridge-based throughout. Snow cornices on the ridge to the left along the way pose a danger.
Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Usage and Route Passage Features
For groups of 6 people, it is necessary to have:
- 6 rock pitons
- 6 chocks
- quickdraws
- hammers
Each participant should have crampons and an ice axe.
Characteristic Signs of the Route Start
The route is logical and clearly visible from the base camp. Pay special attention during the approach to the start of the buttress; do not cross the couloirs.
Route along the Southern ridge 1B cat. diff. Route along the right South-West Route along the North-Western Route along the Western buttress Route along the left Western edge Route along the Western wall 3B cat. diff. Traverse of peaks Ermolaeva north – Ermolaeva north.