Ascent Passport
Area — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Peak 60 let Pobedy. Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B. Height difference — 400 m. Distance — 1000 m. Use of technical means — ice axes, crampons, rope. Travel time — 7–8 hours from overnight stay. Leader — Shumilov V. D., instructor cert. No. 697
Participants:
- Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of Russia International Class
- Tinin Yu. P. — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Odintsov Yu. F. — 1st sports category
- Odintsov F. Yu. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
- Bedarev M. V. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
- Zhukov I. V. — unranked
- Zhukova A. I. — unranked
- Kalashnikov A. E. — unranked
- Kochenova A. V. — unranked
- Krasnova G. — unranked
- Krasnova M. A. — unranked
- Krushininova L. V. — unranked
- Merkulova S. V. — unranked
- Nilov V. L. — unranked
- Pavlova L. N. — unranked
- Podeltseva I. Yu. — unranked
- Taranov I. I. — unranked
- Erokhova I. A. — unranked
- Taranov I. A. — unranked
- Dorozhny M. V. — unranked
- Klinger L. — unranked
Ascent date — August 1, 2005. Organizing body — Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Republic of Altai.
Approach
From the Base camp (2600 m) we move along the stream to the terminal moraine of the Tsentralny Tekelu glacier (1 hour).
We move along the center of the moraine to a small lake (1 hour).
We bypass the lake on the left.
Along the stream, we ascend to the terminal moraine and exit onto the glacier.
Glacier:
- open, without crevasses
- slope 10°
After 40 minutes of movement, we approach the turn of the glacier to the left.
Glacier characteristics:
- slope increases to 30°
- glacier becomes closed
- crevasses are possible
- it is necessary to put on crampons and move in rope teams
After 300 m, the glacier becomes gentler and open again.
Route
Along the glacier, we approach a snow slope with a slope of 30°, length 400 m.
Along the snow slope, we exit onto the northern ridge. The ridge is a destroyed rock with three 2.5 m walls.
We move along the right side of the ridge, which after 200 m leads to the summit.
Descent from the summit via the ascent route.
Equipment recommended for a group of 4 people:
- Main rope — 1 × 40 m.
- Crampons — 4 pairs.
- Personal equipment — 4 sets.
Route Diagram
R0–R1 — 400 m, 30° R1–R2 — 200 m, 10–15°