ASCENT REPORT

(second passage of the route)

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley.
3. Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-East face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 30 m total route length — 930 m average steepness — 73°
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 31 4 chocks 59
7. Total climbing hours — 15.
8. Number of bivouacs — none.
9. Group composition: Ginzburg S. A. CMS — leader Kolomytsev V. G. MS — member Elagin V. I. MS — member Grebenshchikov I. E. MS — member Makhnovetsky A. B. CMS — member
10. Team coach: Kolomytsev V. G. MS
11. Ascent to the route and summit: July 15, 1985.
12. Moscow Sports Committee report.

Photo #1. General view of the summit. ▲ — initial bivouac ——— — route via the South-East face. – – – — route via the North-East face.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION BY SECTIONS

R0–R1. Steep, smooth slab; free climbing in climbing shoes. R1–R2. Narrow crack in a smooth, very steep wall, free climbing in climbing shoes. R2–R3. Continuation of section R1–R2. Crack cannot be climbed free. Use of artificial aids necessary. R3–R4. Smooth wall, free climbing in climbing shoes. R4–R5. From this section to R9–R10, the route goes to the right of a large characteristic inner corner. Almost vertical chimney. Climbed using artificial aids. R5–R6. Inner corner turning into a wall; free climbing. Section ends with a small ledge. R6–R7. Smooth wall, free climbing in climbing shoes. R7–R8. Crack in a monolithic wall, free climbing, ends with a ledge. R8–R9. Ledge climbed using artificial aids. R9–R10. Then left and up the slab to a narrow ledge at the base of a large inner corner formed by a steep slab with a left, almost vertical edge 3-5 meters high. R10–R11. Up the smooth slab of the inner corner, then left across the vertical edge of the inner corner and then left and up to a shelf. R11–R13. Up the smooth wall, then up a destroyed inner corner to a 3 × 2 m ledge. Then cross a small ridge and descend into a very steep, trough-like inner corner. The route then coincides with the route via the South-East face. R13–R16. Steep inner corner with walls, free climbing in climbing shoes. Several options to climb this corner. The easiest is the far right one, closest to the steep rock edge. R16–R17. Scree ledge, bypassing the summit tower from left to right. R17–R18. System of smooth walls and ledges leading to the pre-summit ridge. Rocks are icy. R18–R19. Pre-summit ridge.