descent on a rope with leaving a loop. Further descent along the couloir and osnam bypassing the gendarme Amna-Krun to the pass between the peaks Moskva and Sakharnaya Golova. From the pass, descent to the Akhbasoy glacier. The travel time from the saddle between the peaks and the gendarme to the Akhbasoy glacier is about 4–6 hours.
Recommendations
I. It's better to start the ascent up the snow-ice slope to the gendarme not later than 7:00–7:30 am, when the snow is not too soft.
When ascending from the saddle to the summit, have:
- one pair of crampons
- non-frozen sneakers
which speeds up the movement.
- When ascending to the gendarme and to the summit from the saddle, have water with you, as there is no water on the moraine.
