1. Climbing class: High-altitude technical
  2. Climbing area, ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Terekty river area.
  3. Peak, its height, climbing route: peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii 5250 m via the Eastern wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1320.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying: 232. Placement elements: 126. Rock: 94 Ice: 12 Bolt: none For creating artificial holds: 78
  7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 2 lying down, 1 sitting.
  8. Number of travel hours: 46 hours.
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:
    1. Kudashkin Yu.V. — Master of Sports, leader
    2. Popov F.E. — Master of Sports, participant
    3. Vakurin V.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
    4. Kuropatkin V.P. — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
    5. Shchepak S.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant.
  10. Team coach: Popov F.E.
  11. Date of departure and return: from July 21 to July 24, 1981. img-0.jpeg

img-1.jpeg Team's route

DateDesignationAverage steepness in degreesLength in metersTerrain characterDifficultyConditionWeather conditionsRockIcePlacement elem.RockIcePlacement elem.Time of departure and stop for bivouac, travel hours, overnight conditions
July 21, 19810–155°50ice4poroussatisfactory10Departure at 3:30
1–250°30wall4rocks destroyedsatisfactoryTravel hours 14:00
2–345°15rocky ridge4rocks destroyedsatisfactoryOvernight lying down
3–450°40wall4rocks destroyedsatisfactory5
4–580°10wall5rocks monolithicsatisfactory23
5–660°40wall5rocks destroyedsatisfactory224
6–750–55°45wall4rocks destroyedsatisfactory412
7–850°20traverse4rocks destroyedsatisfactory3
8–975°40chimney with a plug5rockssatisfactory62
9–1070°60bastion wall5rocks large-blocksatisfactory26
10–1180°40bastion wall6rocks monolithicsatisfactory4356
11–1265°20bastion wall5rocks destroyedsatisfactory34
12–1335°10ledge4rocks destroyedsatisfactory12
13–1450°60wall5rocks destroyedsatisfactory23
14–1545°20wall4rocks destroyedsatisfactory13
15–1670°20wall traverse4rocks destroyedsatisfactory13
16–1790°30giant chimney6rocks monolithicsatisfactory351
17–1895°20overhanging chimney6rocks monolithicsatisfactory1424
18–1980°20wall5monolithicsatisfactory2
19–2065°40wall5rocks destroyedsatisfactory24
20–2175°20wall5rockswet fine snow13
21–2280°40wall5rockssatisfactory41
22–2375°40wall5rockssatisfactory22
23–2495°5cornice6rocks destroyedsatisfactory1213
24–2560°60wall5rocks destroyedsatisfactory43
25–26100°2cornice5rockssatisfactory2
July 22, 198126–2785°10wall5rockswet fine snow12Departure at 8:00
27–2860°20wall4rockssatisfactory4
28–2985°20wall5rockssatisfactory22
29–3095°15cornice6rocks monolithicsatisfactory1734Travel hours 12:00
30–3185°60wall5rocks monolithicsatisfactory52Overnight semi-reclined
31–3285°12chimney with overhang6rockssatisfactory2252
32–3385–90°60wall6rockssatisfactory4811
33–3470°10slab6rockssatisfactory3
34–3595°5cornice6rockssatisfactory212
35–3685°15wall6rockssatisfactory3234
36–3780°40wall5rockssatisfactory22
37–3895°7cornice6rockssatisfactory14
38–3990°40wall6rockssatisfactory3212
39–4080°40wall5rockssatisfactory22
July 23, 198140–4175°15chimney5rockssatisfactory12Departure at 8:00
41–4295°15wall6rockssatisfactory2323Travel hours 14:00
42–4385°30crack5rockssatisfactory12Overnight lying down
43–4490°40chimney6rockssatisfactory4523
44–4575°20wall5rockssatisfactory1
45–4685°50wall6rockssatisfactory4724
46–4795°20cornice6rockssatisfactory2312
47–4885°15wall6rockssatisfactory22
48–4970°40wall5rockssatisfactory12
49–5060°30wall4rockssatisfactory21
50–5150°80firn4firnsatisfactory
51–5260°20firn4firnsatisfactory
July 24, 198152–5350°80firn4firnsatisfactoryDeparture at 8:00
53–5415°200ridge4firnsatisfactoryTravel hours 6:00
54–5550°80ice4firnsatisfactory

94 12 126 30 48 Travel hours on the route 46:00. Overnights 3:00.

img-2.jpeg

850 m along the slope, wet fine snow

Brief explanation of the table

Section 0–1 — ice-firn slope, porous, passed in lumps.

1–2 — rocks of medium complexity, very destroyed, passed without pitons.

2–3 — rocky ridge, steep, rocks destroyed, possible rockfall.

3–7 — wall with small holds, not very steep. Belaying mainly with pitons. Rocks destroyed, rockfall possible in the lower part. Very difficult to organize reliable belaying.

7–13 — Section is a granite belt, very monolithic. Placement elements almost not used. In the middle part, the belt transitions into a bastion "small". It is bypassed on the left along a very complex wall. Exits onto a scree ledge.

13–16 — rocky wall, rocks destroyed, climbing not complicated, but very dangerous, many loose rocks.

16–19 — giant chimney. In the lower part — monolithic. At the exit, rocks destroyed. Passed using ladders, placement elements, and rock of the step.

19–28 — schist belt. Very destroyed. Belaying unreliable.

28–31 — rocky wall. Climbing very complex. Monolithic. In the upper part, deviation to the right. Cracks not large. Mostly petal-shaped pitons and "Hexes" used.

31–34 — chimney, overhanging in the upper part.

34–37 — rocky wall, very slippery. Climbing complicated by constantly falling snow.

37–38 — cornice — exit to the "belly". Everything is slippery.

38–39 — bypass on the right of the "belly". Rocks overhanging. Climbing very complex. This is the 1st piton section of the route.

Section 39–40 — rocky wall. Monolithic.

40–47 — Crack. In the lower part narrow. In the upper part transitions into a chimney, which leads to a giant cornice. Climbing very complex.

47–48 — Giant cornice. 2nd piton section. Very complex. Passed using rope ladders.

48–50 — rocky wall. Destruction. Exit to firn.

50–52 — firn slope. Ice in some places.

52–53 — ridge, ice.

53–54 — rocky ridge, not steep.

54–55 — ice slope.

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Sources

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