Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks
Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third control cairn. Behind the chimney — the last section of difficult climbing on grey slabs, exit to the ridge, along it — to the summit. Descent along the northern option through a chimney with a plug or to the south towards Ordzhonikidze Pass. The ascent takes 18–20 hours.
The first group to make this route was a group of Almaty climbers in May 1962, consisting of:
- G. Petrashko,
- V. Savin,
- G. Shklyar, led by V. Reznik.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants not more than 6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Tuyuksu Glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 6 a.m.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- auxiliary rope — 1×40 m
- expendable cordelette — 10–12 m
- four-step ladders — 2 pcs
- rock pitons — 20 pcs
- carabiners — 16 pcs
- hammers — 2 pcs
Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks. Route description.
Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (pitons belay).
Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3-meter wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20-meter wall (pitons belay).
After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10-meter wall (pitons belay).
Then:
- traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall,
- exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn.
The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf.
Behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third control cairn.
Behind the chimney — the last section of difficult climbing on grey slabs, exit to the ridge, along it — to the summit.
Descent:
- along the northern option through a chimney with a plug,
- or to the south towards Ordzhonikidze Pass.
The ascent takes 18–20 hours.
The first group to make this route was a group of Almaty climbers in May 1962, consisting of: G. Petrashko, V. Savin, G. Shklyar, led by V. Reznik.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants not more than 6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Tuyuksu Glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 6 a.m.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- auxiliary rope — 1×40 m
- expendable cordelette — 10–12 m
- four-step ladders — 2 pcs
- rock pitons — 20 pcs
- carabiners — 16 pcs
- hammers — 2 pcs
Author: Zhunusov B. Source:
Book "Climbing routes. Trans-Ili Alatau". Part 1
Partizan 4390 m, Tuyuksu Needles pass 3975 m, Tuyuksu
Needles
(1) 45 cat. sl. traverse