Technical Description of the Route
2624 The description of the route from base camp "4300" to camp "Peredovoy" is given in the description of the first ascent of Pik Fikker made by a group of the Chelyabinsk expedition of the Zenit Sports Association under the general leadership of Master of Sports of the USSR Levin M.S.
From camp "Peredovoy" (see photo 1 and 2), ascend along the rocks via a snow-ice slope covered with calga-spores to the ridge. The slope's steepness is 30–40°. The height gain to the ridge is 300 m. High calga-spores, especially on steep sections, ensure safe movement early in the morning. Movement is in rope teams. Time to ascend to the ridge is 1 hour.
Further movement is along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, with protruding rocky outcrops, and is wide. The steepness of the slopes forming it is 40–50°. The steepness of the ridge from the point of ascent to the summit varies from 10–15° to 40–45°. Before reaching the summit, one can move along the talus or to the right along the snowy slope.
Movement along the entire path is in rope teams.
Time to ascend along the ridge to the summit: 1–1.5 hours.
The summit is a dome formed by gently sloping snowy slopes. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding panorama opens up:
- Pik Revolyutsii,
- Pik Fikker,
- Pik 26 Baku Commissars,
- Pik Zlatoust,
- Pik Kovshevykh, and others.
Descent is via the ascent route. On the steepest sections, insurance is through an ice axe. Time to descend from the summit to camp "Peredovoy" is 1 hour. Total time for the route from camp "Peredovoy" to the summit and back is 3–3.5 hours.
The group used equipment:
- rope 40 m — 1