151. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category III, Figures 14, 16, 17)

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) or from the "Chegem" tourist base to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Salynan pass is described in route 154. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Bezengi) and exit onto the Southwest Ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From here, there is a small descent to the right and a traverse of the first pinnacle along the ledges. Beyond it, ascend steep 15-20-meter rocks of moderate difficulty (pitched climbing) up to the saddle of the Southwest Ridge.

From the saddle, ascend along the simple, heavily destroyed Southwest Ridge with numerous low pinnacles or along the ledges on its right side (belaying). Then, bypassing a large square rock on the right along a steep snow-ice slope (belaying), move to the left side of the Southwest Ridge. Further, bypassing numerous pinnacles (mainly on the left) along the snow-ice slope (belaying), ascend along the long, rugged Southwest Ridge to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya.

From the saddle of the Salynan pass - 6-8 hours.