ASCENT TO PTITSA SUMMIT VIA NORTH RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B

Route Description

From the "3900*" campsite, head towards the upper plateau of the glacier. The fourth step of the icefall is climbed near the rocks of the West ridge of Kündüm-Mijirgi Peak ("bolts"!) or through the center of the glacier ("crevasses"!). Move left along the plateau towards the saddle between Ptitsa and Kündüm-Mijirgi Peaks. The ascent to the saddle is via a snow slope of 35–40°. (From "3900" campsite — 2–2.5 hours). From the saddle, ascend 200 m up the North ridge via moderately difficult rocks and snow (possible hidden ice!) to the base of a snow-and-rock couloir with flow ice in its lower part. The couloir starts 15–16 m to the right of the ridge. Climb 30–40 m up the couloir ("bolts", ledges!) and then continue along the snowy ridge ("cornices"!) to the base of a rock outcrop. From here, make a short traverse to the right and then ascend 30 m up the couloir ("bolts"!) to a snowy shoulder on the ridge. Then continue along the ridge to the pre-summit outcrop. From under the outcrop, traverse right and upwards along an 80 m snow slope towards an overhanging rock with a jammed stone. To the right of this rock, there is a rock wall that is climbed leftwards and upwards ("bolts"!). The total height of the wall is about 20 m. Then ascend a snow slope to the summit. From the saddle between Kündüm-Mijirgi and Ptitsa Peaks, it takes around 5 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the saddle takes around 3 hours.

Equipment list for a group of 4: Rock bolts 6 pcs Ice screws 3 pcs Crampons 4 pairs Hammers 2 pcs Accessory rope 4 m Slings 12 mm 2 pcs Warm clothing is mandatory!