Description of the ascent route to Peak Mira (4400 m) via the North Counterfort - Category III difficulty.

The starting point of the route can be found in the description for Gerta-bashi peak from Ullu-Auz glacier via Category 1B route.

From the overnight stay in the Trud pass hollow:

  • to the base of the North Counterfort of Peak Mira;
  • from the plateau through the bergschrund and 30-35 m up the ice-snow slope to the start of the rocks;
  • 30-40 m up the cleft to exit onto the left side of the ridge;
  • further, 30-35 m up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the first rocky ascent;
  • 25-30 m up the snowy ridge, bypassing the rocky headland on the right, and up the snowy slope to below the second rocky ascent;
  • up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the sharp snowy ridge, with rocky outcrops in its middle and end sections suitable for belaying;
  • the snowy ridge gives way to a steep icy slope, with rocky outcrops on the left;
  • the icy slope is traversed on crampons from right to left;
  • further, 40-50 m up rocks of moderate difficulty to a rocky shoulder - exit onto the East Ridge of Peak Mira;
  • the broad snowy ridge leads to a 6-8 m tower after 60-90 m, which is ascended directly;
  • from the tower, descend via simple rocks and a sharp snowy ridge (cornices), then up a slope to the third gendarme;
  • from the gendarme, descend down a snowy slope and a simple rocky ridge, then 150-170 m up a snowy ridge interspersed with simple rocks to reach Peak Mira.

From Trud pass to the summit - 5-6 hours.

Descent is via the ascent route.

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Sources

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